33 Keys to Decoding the Korean Wave #18 Kimchi and Gochujang
Fermentation, The Flavor of Time
*한류를 이해하는 33가지 코드 #18 김치와 고추장의 힘 <Korean vesrion>
https://www.nyculturebeat.com/index.php?mid=Focus&document_srl=4080800
In Washington Square Park, the Kimchi Taco Truck (left) and 29 different Kimchi recipes from “Bon Appétit” magazine.
“Everything I am comes from kimchi.”
-Roy Choi (Kogi, Taco Truck) -
“The flavors of Ssäm Sauce are part of Momofuku’s DNA.”
-David Chang (Momofuku)-
Korean Slow Food: Kimchi and Gochujang are deeply rooted in the traditional culinary heritage of Korea. Fermentation, a slow and patient process, is the essence of these iconic dishes. In the United States, there is a growing popularity for both showcasing Kimchi on the shelves of major supermarkets and preparing it from scratch using various recipes.
“I will not rest until every refrigerator in America has a jar of kimchi.” said Phillip Lee (Yoon-Seok Lee), a Korean graduate in Hospitality Management from Cornell University. In 2011, he began operating the Kimchi Taco Truck in Manhattan, offering Galbi Tacos, Spicy Pork Tacos, Kimchi Rice Balls, Galbi Kimchi Bibimbap, Kimchi Stir-Fry, and more. In 2012, he opened the Kimchi Grill in Brooklyn’s Prospect Heights. By promoting Kimchi tirelessly from the Bronx to Queens, and Ridgewood to Valley Stream in New York, and even Jersey City in New Jersey, Phillip Lee has captivated the palates of food enthusiasts.
In May 2022, a Google search for “Where Can I Buy Kimchi in NYC” reveals that Kimchi is available not only in Korean supermarkets like H Mart but also in major supermarkets such as Whole Foods Market, Trader Joe's, Key Food Supermarket, Westside Market, Target Grocery, Wegmans, Katagiri Japanese Grocery, Hong Kong Supermarket, and Bangkok Center Grocery. Kimchi has already found its way into prominent supermarkets, with Key Food’s Atlantic Avenue branch even dedicating a frozen section for K-food items like dumplings, rice cakes, and pancakes.
The food magazine “Bon Appétit” recommended “Mrs. Kim’s Kimchi,” which uses beef broth, as one of the “Best Store-Bought Kimchi” in 2016. In 2018, they featured “29 Fiery Recipes to Use Up that Jar of Kimchi in Your Fridge,” presenting a variety of recipes such as Spicy Kimchi Slaw, Creamy Kimchi Dip, Quick Kimchi Pancakes, Kimchi Udon with Scallions, Oven-Roasted Kimchi Chicken, Dale Talde’s Korean Fried Chicken with Kimchi Yogurt, Ramp Kimchi, Kimchi Miso Dressing, and more.
In September 2024, The New York Times launched the 'New York Times Cooking' app and unveiled 'Our 50 Greatest Hits, According to You,' which featured dishes like Gochujang Buttered Noodles, Gochujang Caramel Cookies, Momofuku Bo Ssam, and Sheet Pan Bibimbap.
The popularity of Kimchi and Gochujang continues to rise, and they have become essential elements of Korean cuisine, carrying with them the delightful flavor of time-honored traditions.
Fermentation: Falvor of Time
In 2014, Mama O’s Premium Kimchi’s owner, Kheedim Oh, hosted a kimchi-making workshop at Jimmy’s No. 43 in the East Village, targeting food bloggers./ “Ssäm Sauce” from Momofuku by David Chang and ‘Ssäm Sauce’ from Momofuku .
In today’s fast-paced world, it seems like all Koreans are rushing and embracing a “quickly quickly (ppalli ppalli)” mentality. Behind this obsession with speed lies the philosophy of slowness. Fermented foods like kimchi, soy sauce, doenjang (soybean paste), gochujang (red pepper paste), and jeotgal (fermented seafood) represent our “Slow Food,” embodying time and care.
The Slow Food movement, which has now spread to over 160 countries worldwide, originated in 1986 in Bra, in northern Italy, initiated by social activist Carlo Petrini. Upon hearing the news of a McDonald’s opening next to the Spanish Steps, one of Rome’s tourist attractions, Petrini launched the Slow Food movement to counter fast food. During my trip to Turin in 2007, I had a chance to visit the small village of Bra, which became the heart of the Slow Food movement.
While cheese, wine, yogurt, and beer are representative fermented foods in the West, kimchi, soy sauce, doenjang, and gochujang are Korea’s impenetrable fermented foods in the face of fast food. Kimchi, an essential part of the Korean dining table, holds a special meaning for our nation, as evidenced by the lyrics of the song “Kimchi Song” by Jeong Kwang-Tae, who sings “DokDo Is Our Land” as well.
'김치 주제가'가 담긴 정광태의 앨범(1985)
“If there were no kimchi/ What taste would our rice have?
Even if tempted by the most exquisite dishes/ Without kimchi, it feels incomplete
I can’t live without kimchi, really can’t live/ I can’t, I can’t forget you
Whether by taste or fragrance/ I can’t be without it, can I change my taste buds...”
-Jeonh Kwang-Tae, "Kimchi Song"-
“Want to live a long, healthy life? Move to South Korea.”
Jonggajip Kimchi (left), Gochujang Photo by redhonghope
In 2006, the American magazine “Health” selected kimchi as one of the world’s five healthiest foods, along with olive oil from Spain, fermented soy-based products from Japan, yogurt from Greece, and lentils from India. Kimchi is rich in probiotics, fiber, and vitamins, and it is believed to aid digestion, prevent cancer cell growth, and help with weight management due to its low-fat, high-fiber diet benefits. Spanish olive oil is known for its efficacy in combating heart disease, stroke, and breast cancer, while Greek yogurt strengthens the immune system and bone tissues. Japanese soy-based products such as soy sauce, tofu, and natto are considered beneficial for preventing cancer and osteoporosis, and Indian lentils are said to lower cholesterol levels.
In a 2017 article titled “Diet secrets from the world’s healthiest countries,” the New York Post wrote, “Want to live a long, healthy life? Move to South Korea.” The Post quoted a study from London’s Imperial College London published in the medical journal “The Lancet.” The study highlighted the fact that the life expectancy of Korean men and women is 84 years and 90.8 years, respectively, much higher than that of Americans (79.5 years for men and 83.3 years for women). The newspaper pointed out that one of the reasons for Koreans’ longevity is the consumption of kimchi, which not only supplements fiber and antioxidants but also provides beneficial probiotics for digestive health. Another secret to their longevity was attributed to their diet rich in healthy ingredients, particularly in bibimbap, which is traditionally served with gochujang, a spicy red pepper paste.
The Michelin Guide, also drawing from the same study in 2017, predicted that by 2030, Koreans’ average life expectancy would become the world’s highest. They highlighted kimchi’s efficacy as the “Latest Superfood.”
kimjang https://www.unesco.or
In contrast to Germany’s sauerkraut, which requires just cabbage and salt for fermentation (you can add juniper berries and mustard seeds though), kimchi calls for a more diverse range of ingredients. Along with cabbage, green onions, gochugaru (red pepper powder), salted shrimp, garlic, and ginger, other elements like turnips, onions, and minari (water parsley) are added, along with brine and sugar. Various recipes may also include kelp, anchovy sauce, and glutinous rice. Is that all? Depending on the region, various seafood such as oysters and abalone are also added to chicken, pork, and beef. Anything Goes! It seems that Korean kimchi has risen to the level of art.
Michelle Obama Made Kimchi in the White House
In early 1996, Luca, a Swiss lawyer and my classmate at Columbia University’s English as a Second Language (ESL) program in New York, discovered gochujang in the city. He seemed to be enchanted by the sauce he tasted in bibimbap at a nearby Korean restaurant called The Mill. When he exclaimed, “I could eat a bowl of rice with just gochujang,” it was as if lightning struck. Was it because he hailed from the land of cheese? Or perhaps it was the common denominator of fermentation found in cheese and kimchi that caught his attention.
In the same class, Korean and Japanese students gathered at The Mill during lunchtime, indulging in dishes like pork bulgogi, bibimbap, and sundubu jjigae (spicy soft tofu stew). Fukunori, in particular, had a deep love for kimchi. Luca and Fukunori awakened me to the potential of Korean cuisine in New York, well before the Hallyu wave reached the United States. At that time, we Korean students were still concerned about the smell of kimchi and garlic being around us.
In April 1996, Mark Bittman, of The New York Times, wrote an article titled “Exploring the World of Kimchi, the Spicy Korean Staple,” featuring the enthusiasm of American friends who pickle and eat kimchi, along with homemade kimchi recipes. Since then, The New York Times has published various kimchi recipes, including kimchi pancakes (2010), cucumber kimchi (2011), quick kimchi made with green vegetables and bean sprouts (geotjeori), kimchi soup, kimchi ramen cake, kimchi omelet (2015), 15-minute kimchi (2018), and kimchi fried rice (2020).
On April 14, 2020, a NYT reporter, Melissa Clark, featured kimchi jjigae from star YouTuber, Maangchi (Emily Kim), and kimchi soup from New York chef Hooni Kim’s cookbook “My Korea” in The New York Times’ Dining section, and on July 2, 2020, the newspaper published an article encouraging readers to try pickling kimchi at home. Food columnist Eric Kim’s piece “Think of Kimchi as a Verb” introduced recipes for cucumber kimchi, cherry tomato kimchi, and fennel kimchi.
In August 2022, The New York Times’ Dining section once again featured kimchi, covering it in a featured article across three pages. Eric Kim’s piece, titled “If You Can Make a Salad, You Can Make Kimchi,” highlighted how Korean immigrants leaving their homeland continued the tradition of kimjang ((the communal kimchi-making culture), preserving their heritage. The article emphasized that kimjang is a cultural heritage that should be passed down as the tradition of sharing and making kimchi in Korea.
And The New York Times recommended the Kimchi French Toast With Kimchi recipe in "24 Breakfast Recipes to Make You a Morning Person" in the dining section dated January 22, 2024. NYT's Cooking section features recipes using kimchi, such as Kimchi Grilled Cheese, Kimchi Cheddar Biscuits, Buttery Kimchi Shrimp, and Kimchi Jjigae with Ribs.
As time went by, kimchi even found its way to the White House kitchen. In February 2013, First Lady Michelle Obama tweeted a photo of herself making cabbage kimchi at the White House, along with the recipe. “Last week, we picked Napa cabbage in the garden. Now, we’re using it to make kimchi in the kitchen. Make it at home.” In December 2013, Korea’s kimjang culture was inscribed as a UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage.
Kimchi Chronicles, a TV documentary series hosted by Jean-Georges Vongerichten and Marja Vongerichten (2010).
Michelin three-star chef Jean-Georges Vongerichten and his Korean American wife, Marja Vongerichten, took center stage in the 13-part Korean documentary series The Kimchi Chronicles (2010). The series explored Korean cuisine and culture, covering diverse topics such as rice, Jeju Island seafood, soybean dishes, beef flavors, chicken dishes, Seoul noodles and dumplings, pork, and street food. With guest appearances by actors Hugh Jackman and Heather Graham, the series aired on PBS-TV in 2011, significantly raising awareness of Korean cuisine in American society.
Marja Vongerichten also authored The Kimchi Chronicles: Korean Cooking for an American Kitchen: A Cookbook, where she shared insights into her multicultural kitchen, blending Korean, French, and American culinary traditions. She humorously mentioned how her husband keeps European ingredients like olive oil and vinegar in the pantry, while she stocks the fridge with kimchi. Over time, kimchi became a staple in their home, even winning over their daughter, Chloe, who loves it despite her preference for pasta and rice.
Chef Eric Ripert, a Michelin three-star chef, meets David Chang of Momofuku to seek advice before his trip to Korea for filming “Avec Eric.” Dishes like vegetables, gochujang, kimchi, and Momofuku ssam sauce were served on the table. http://www.aveceric.com
Eric Ripert, the chef of the Michelin three-star restaurant Le Bernardin in New York, also embraced Korean flavors. In 2015, he visited Korea to film an episode of his cooking program Avec Eric, exploring Korean temple food under the guidance of Ven. Jeong Kwan, the renowned temple food expert and head monk of Cheonjinam at Baekyangsa. The episode, titled “KOREA-Temple Food: Feed the Soul,” aired in March 2015 and was followed by an event at Le Bernardin in 2017, showcasing dishes like gondre rice, grilled tofu, neungi mushroom soup, and potato pancakes.
Ripert’s journey in Korea also inspired him to delve into kimchi and gochujang, leading to the creation of a “Korean-style Shrimp Bouillabaisse/Cioppino.” He began incorporating kimchi and gochujang into the menu at Le Bernardin. During a winter lunch visit in 2015, I couldn’t resist ordering Hamachi (Yellowtail) with Gochujang Sauce and Skate with Kimchi Broth—both a delightful nod to my heritage and a testament to the evolving palate of fine dining. In March 2019, Le Bernardin shared a new Korean-inspired dish, Red Snapper Slivers with Asian Pear and Kimchi Emulsion, on social media.
In March 2019, Eric Ripert’s Le Bernardin featured a Red Snapper (1, Twitter) dish with kimchi broth on the menu. In 2015, I tasted lunch with dishes such as Gochujang Sauce Hamachi (2) and Kimchi Sauce Skate (3).
In the summer of 2016, Michelin-starred chef Daniel Boulud’s Café Boulud on the Upper East Side featured a special Korean-inspired menu titled “Le Voyage: Korean Cuisine,” which included dishes such as seaweed soup, hamachi tartare with spicy gochujang, braised monkfish, and makgalbi jjim with kimchi.
On the vegan front, Chef Adam Sobel of the popular food truck Cinnamon Snail, known for racing through New York, has also embraced kimchi and gochujang. His menu features items like the “Gochujang Burger Deluxe” and “Kimchi Tater Tots.” During the COVID-19 quarantine, he offered a special menu, the “Quarantine Living Room Picnic Bibimbap,” which included kimchi, tofu, butternut squash, and seaweed, bringing a taste of Korean comfort food to homebound New Yorkers.
On the left, Cinnamon Snail’s Chef Adam Sobel presents a “Quarantine living room picnic / Homemade kimchi and Chef Isabel Bogadke of Finger Lakes’ hot dog joint, FLX Wienery.
Kimchi’s influence reaches far beyond metropolitan areas. In the spring of 2016, my boyfriend and I visited the Hermann J. Wiemer Vineyard in the Finger Lakes wine region of upstate New York for a wine tasting. The winemaker recommended we try a nearby hot dog specialty restaurant, FLX Wienery. There, Chef Isabel Bogadke was serving creative dishes like the “K-Town Dog” and “Kimchi Fries,” featuring kimchi made by her husband, Chef Christopher Bates, who had perfected the recipe using a YouTube tutorial. His dedication to mastering the art of kimchi-making demonstrated how this traditional Korean staple has transcended its roots to become a versatile and cherished ingredient embraced by chefs and food enthusiasts in diverse culinary contexts.
Korean Americans Devoted to the Kimchi Business
Koreans have long cherished fermented foods infused with patience and care. According to the Kimchi Museum in Seoul, there are over 300 different types of kimchi. In spring, we enjoy cabbage and mustard leaf kimchi; in summer, we savor young radish kimchi and cucumber kimchi; autumn is time for scallion kimchi and bachelor radish kimchi; in winter, we indulge in kimjang kimchi and radish water kimchi. Kimchi has been acknowledged as a superfood with numerous health benefits, including anti-cancer properties, immune system enhancement, anti-aging effects, cholesterol control, and weight management.
In Korea, surrounded by the sea on three sides, we have a tradition of not wasting any part of a fish. We salt and ferment fish innards to create pungent and flavorful fish sauces (jeotgal) with a distinct taste called “umami(savoury).” Jeotgal for kimchi combines plant-based and animal-based ingredients, utilizing the synergy of double fermentation. There are about 140 different types of jeotgal, including shrimp and squid jeotgal from Seoul, baby clam and flatfish jeotgal from Chungcheong Province, pollack and hairtail jeotgal from Gangwon Province, mackerel and hairtail spine jeotgal from Gyeongsang Province, yellowtail and horse crab jeotgal from Jeolla Province, hairtail and dried baby pollack jeotgal from Jeju Island, sand lance and cutlassfish jeotgal from the Yellow Sea, and salmon roe and cutlassfish intestines jeotgal from Hamgyeong Province.
In 2012, at Union Square, Philip Lee’s Kimchi Taco Truck, serving chicken, spicy pork, and beef short rib tacos with kimchi, gained popularity.
Kimchi has found widespread popularity in the United States, especially when it was paired with Mexican tacos. The fusion of kimchi and tacos has become a hit among the masses. Roy Choi, a second-generation Korean American, who graduated from the Culinary Institute of America and then operated the Kogi food truck in LA in 2008, sparked the kimchi taco truck trend. Subsequently, in 2008, Cornell University graduate Phillip Lee launched the Kimchi Taco Truck in New York, offering galbi (beef short rib) tacos, spicy pork tacos, and kimchi rice balls to New Yorkers. Kimchi tacos even made their way to the cocktail lounge at the Four Seasons Hotel in New York.
Robert Austin Cho, who graduated from Rutgers University with a degree in business, previously worked as a real estate agent before starting Kimchi Smoke Barbecue in Westwood, New Jersey, where he serves Texas-style barbecue with a twist of kimchi. One of his popular items, the Chonut 2.1, is a fusion barbecue sandwich consisting of smoked brisket, smoked kimchi, cheese, bacon, scallions, with bourbon chipotle sauce on a glazed donut. Kimchi Smoke BBQ participated in the Hudson River Blues Festival as a food vendor in the summer of 2022.
A Kimchi Conversarion with Authors Lauryn Chun and Ben Ryder Howe at the New York Public Library in 2013.
As kimchi gains popularity as a wellness food, second-generation Korean Americans in New York have transitioned their careers to start kimchi businesses. Brands like Mother-in Law Kimchi and Mama O’s Premium Kimchi pay homage to their mothers’ generation. These new-generation kimchi entrepreneurs have elevated their brands and packaging, promoting kimchi to American consumers through various marketing techniques such as tastings, wine pairings, kimchi-making workshops, and kimchi-eating contests.
Lauryn Chun, who previously worked as a wine journalist in New York, started her kimchi business in 2009. She learned the art of kimchi-making from her mother, who ran a seolleongtang (ox bone soup) restaurant called Jang Mo Jip in Garden Grove, California. Lauryn launched her brand called “Mother-in-Law’s Kimchi,” incorporating her mother’s kimchi-making techniques. Mother-in-Law’s Kimchi offers three types of kimchi: Original, Seaweed (for vegetarians), and Spicy, each aged like a wine reserva.
In 2014, Lauryn expanded her business to include gochujang (red chili paste), offering four distinct flavors: Original, Tangy, Sesame, and Garlic. Lauryn hosted kimchi workshops at the New York Public Library and introduced the pairing of kimchi with wine at the Korea Society. She also authored “The Kimchi Cookbook.” The name of her company, “Milkimchi,” reflects her wish for both milk and kimchi to be found in every fridge worldwide.
"Kimchi Eating Contest" by Mama O's on Governors Island in 2012.
Kheedim Oh, a Korean American who previously worked as a DJ in New York, started Mama O’s Premium Kimchi in 2009. Learning the art of kimchi-making from his mother in Maryland, Kheedim launched Mama O’s as a premium kimchi brand. He organized the kimchi festival “Kimchi Palooza,” featuring spicy kimchi eating contests and kimchi-making workshops.
Mama O’s kimchi also sells home kimchi-making kits, kimchi paste, and kimchi sauce to make it easier for people to prepare kimchi at home. His products have made their way to stores like Whole Foods, Murray’s Cheese Shop, and Williams Sonoma.
These second-generation Korean American entrepreneurs have embraced their cultural heritage, turning kimchi into a sought-after delicacy that has found its way into the hearts and fridges of many Americans. Their dedication to the kimchi business has not only contributed to the diversification of the American food scene, but has also brought Korean culture to the forefront of the culinary world in the United States.
The Rise of Korean American Chefs
Korean american star chefs: David Chang(from left), Roy Choi, Corey Lee, Edward Lee, Danny Bowien, and Hooni Kim.
In his 2014 column titled “Why Korean Men Cook Well” for my website, NYCultureBeat.com, Chef Tony Yoo of Seoul's Dooreyoo emphasized the importance of chopsticks, bibimbap, and fermented foods in Korean cuisine. He highlighted that the “taste of fermentation” is the most innovative and captivating aspect of Korean flavors. Mastering the intricate art of fermentation, he argued, gives Korean chefs a distinct advantage in the culinary world, allowing them to create complex, nuanced dishes that stand out on the global stage.
Korean fermented foods like kimchi, gochujang, and jeotgal create deep, layered flavors that have refined Korean palates to appreciate subtle nuances. This has resulted in a rich culinary vocabulary with descriptors such as spicy, tangy, savory, sweet, and more, which are often challenging to translate into English. This depth of flavor and understanding of fermentation has become a secret weapon for Korean American chefs, who are now making a significant impact on the American culinary scene.
Chefs like David Chang of Momofuku have been at the forefront of this movement, bringing the bold flavors of fermented foods and the spirit of bibimbap to the United States. In May 2013, I had the opportunity to cover the James Beard Foundation Awards, often referred to as the “Oscars of the food world,” held at Lincoln Center. That evening, David Chang, a second-generation Korean American, won the Outstanding Chef award alongside Paul Kahan of Blackbird in Chicago. Additionally, adoptee Korean American chef Danny Bowien was honored with the Rising Star of the Year award. Witnessing two Korean American chefs being recognized as both the best and the most promising in their field was truly incredible and a proud moment for the Korean American community.
Other Korean American chefs have also made waves across the country, including Roy Choi, who started the taco truck trend with his Kogi truck in Los Angeles; Corey Lee of the Michelin three-star restaurant Benu in San Francisco; Yim Jung-sik of the two Michelin-starred Jungsik in New York; Hooni Kim of Danji, the first Korean restaurant in New York to earn a Michelin star; and Edward Lee of 610 Magnolia in Louisville, Kentucky. These chefs have become pioneers of modern American cuisine, skillfully blending French techniques with Korean ingredients and flavors. Armed with the “bibimbap spirit,” which merges diverse elements like kimchi and Mexican tacos, they are leading a new American food revolution.
Roy Choi, in his memoir "L.A. Son: My Life, My City, My Food," wrote, “Everything I am came from kimchi.” After majoring in philosophy at the University of California, Choi studied culinary arts at the Culinary Institute of America (CIA) in upstate New York. He launched the Kogi taco truck outside a nightclub in Beverly Hills in 2008, which quickly propelled him to fame.
Corey Lee, who operates Benu, became the first Korean American chef to earn three Michelin stars in 2015. After honing his skills at Thomas Keller’s French Laundry in Napa Valley and Per Se in New York, Lee was named the James Beard Foundation’s Rising Star Chef in 2006 and Best Chef: West in 2017. At Benu, he serves dishes like galbi-jjim and barbecue with kimchi and ssamjang. In 2020, the San Francisco Chronicle featured Lee posing in front of traditional Korean earthenware jars used for fermenting gochujang and kimchi, announcing the opening of his new Korean barbecue restaurant, San Ho Won. He even brings soy sauce from Jukjangyeon in Pohang, Korea, to use in his cooking.
Danny Bowien, born in Korea and adopted by an Oklahoma family, won a pesto competition in Genoa, Italy, in 2008. He then gained popularity with his pop-up restaurant Mission Chinese Food in San Francisco and opened a New York branch in 2012, which was named the #1 new restaurant by The New York Times that year, sparking a Sichuan cuisine craze in the city.
Edward Lee, a top graduate of NYU with a degree in English, became a rising star in Southern cuisine at 610 Magnolia in Louisville in 2004. After being a James Beard Foundation Award finalist multiple times, he expanded his culinary ventures to Maryland’s National Harbor and Washington, D.C., with the opening of his upscale restaurant, Succotash. His cookbook, Smoke & Pickle, features recipes that creatively blend Southern and Korean flavors, such as a pork rice bowl with Korean barbecue, kimchi, gochujang, and soy sauce.
These chefs are redefining American cuisine by integrating their Korean heritage with diverse culinary influences, creating a vibrant and innovative food culture. Their dedication to honoring traditional flavors while embracing new techniques and ingredients has made them leaders in the culinary world, bringing Korean cuisine to the forefront of the American food scene.
Ssam Sauce Ambassadors: Hooni Kim and David Chang
Hooni Kim of Danji (chefsociety)/ Curtis of Benu. (clee_benu instagram).
Hooni Kim made his mark on the New York culinary scene when he opened Danji in Manhattan in 2010, earning it the distinction of being the first Korean restaurant to receive a Michelin star the following year. He later opened Hanjan, which garnered two stars from The New York Times, focusing on traditional Korean dishes such as gochujang pork ribs, mukbang kimchi stew, and jukjangyeon gochujang anchovy fritters—offering an authentic taste of Korean street and market food. In 2020, Kim released his cookbook My Korea: Traditional Flavors, Modern Recipes, further showcasing his passion for Korean cuisine. He also launched 'Meju,' a restaurant centered around a soybean paste-themed tasting menu in Long Island City, Queens, which received a Michelin star in 2023.
Chef Kim is a passionate advocate of jang, the traditional Korean fermented sauces. In 2013, he organized a tasting event in New York featuring jang from Jukjangyeon, Pohang, for local food enthusiasts. He later introduced “Hooni’s Ssam Sauce,” a versatile condiment made with a blend of doenjang (soybean paste), cheonggukjang (fermented soybean paste), gochujang (red pepper paste), apple juice, sugar, sesame oil, garlic, ginger, green onion, and soybean oil. This sauce, combining the essence of three traditional jangs—doenjang, gochujang, and ganjang (soy sauce)—reflects Kim’s dedication to promoting Korea’s unique flavors. Jukjangyeon, a brand known for its vintage approach of fermenting jang in iron cauldrons with oak wood, has gained traction by collaborating with Korean American star chefs like Kim.
Momofuku Ssäm Sauces with pepperoni pizza.
David Chang, named one of Time magazine’s “100 Most Influential People” in 2010 and 2012, revolutionized New York’s dining scene when he opened Momofuku Noodle Bar in the then-underdeveloped East Village in 2004. The restaurant’s standout dish, the Pork Bun—an innovative twist on the classic Peking duck, featuring sliced pork belly, cucumber, and scallions on a soft wheat bun—quickly became a sensation. Momofuku’s ramen, another hit, sparked a proliferation of Japanese ramen restaurants across New York. At his second venture, Momofuku Ssäm Bar, Chang introduced Bo Ssäm, a slow-roasted pork belly served with oysters, kimchi, and lettuce, garnering widespread acclaim. He continued his success with the 12-seat tasting menu restaurant Ko, solidifying his culinary empire.
Chang, like Kim, has a deep appreciation for Korean fermented condiments like kimchi and gochujang, which he describes as the foundation of many of his dishes. Since the inception of Momofuku Noodle Bar in 2004, he has been crafting his own version of Ssäm Sauce (ssämjang), blending gochujang, doenjang, and ganjang with vinegar, mirin, sugar, onion, and cayenne pepper. In 2015, he began selling this signature Ssäm Sauce nationwide through a partnership with Kraft Heinz and Amazon. The original Ssäm Sauce pairs well with pizza, burgers, fried chicken, and ramen, while the spicy version is perfect for sandwiches, buffalo chicken wings, grilled vegetables, and tacos. “The flavors of Ssäm Sauce are part of Momofuku’s DNA,” Chang has said.
Both chefs have skillfully incorporated traditional Korean fermented products into modern cuisine, creating a harmonious blend of flavors that resonate with a global audience. Through their innovative dishes and product lines, they have elevated Korean cuisine, making it more accessible and appealing to the wider public. The rising popularity of “Ssam Sauce” as a versatile condiment, comparable to ketchup, Tabasco, or Sriracha, is a testament to its growing influence on American culinary culture.
In the summer of 2023, Momofuku introduced Sweet & Spicy Noodles and Spicy Chili Noodles with a gochujang flavor. David Chang shared that he had been using the Sweet & Spicy Noodles throughout the season to make Bibim Naengmyeon (mixed cold noodles), further demonstrating the versatility and appeal of these Korean-inspired flavors.
Through their pioneering work, Hooni Kim and David Chang have become true ambassadors of Korean cuisine, showcasing the depth and versatility of jang and spreading the allure of Korean flavors to tables around the world.
China Claims to Be the Origin of Kimchi
Kimchi can now be ordered online as well. When you search for Kimchi on Amazon.com, you’ll find dozens of Kimchi brands.
In November 2020, during the peak of the COVID-19 outbreak in Wuhan, China, a controversy arose over the origin of kimchi. The Chinese state-run media outlet, Global Times, reported that "Pao cai," a fermented vegetable dish from Meishan in Sichuan Province, had received international standard certification from the International Organization for Standardization (ISO). The article claimed that this certification positioned China as the leader in the global kimchi industry, sparking outrage in South Korea. Under the provocative headline “Shame of Korean Kimchi,” the report suggested that China’s pao cai had become the international standard for the kimchi industry, while Korea, known as the “Kimchi Kingdom,” was left humiliated.
The claim triggered heated debates across Korean media and social platforms. Many Koreans viewed it as an attempt by China to appropriate a key aspect of Korean cultural heritage. The dispute intensified as it was revealed that China had shown interest in kimchi’s health benefits as early as the 2003 SARS outbreak and had been exporting low-cost kimchi to Korea. Pao cai, a type of pickled vegetable preserved in salt, differs significantly from Korean kimchi, which is defined by the Codex Alimentarius Commission as a dish made from cabbage and a mixture of red pepper powder, garlic, ginger, green onions, and radish, fermented over time.
In response to the controversy, the BBC published an article titled “Kimchi Ferments Cultural Feud between South Korea and China” in November 2020, debunking the misinformation spread by Chinese media. The article explained the unique ingredients and kimjang (kimchi-making) culture of Korean kimchi, emphasizing the clear differences between China’s pao cai and Korean kimchi.
Is China Laying Claim to Kimchi, Too? Some South Koreans Think So, NYT
The New York Times also covered the dispute in an article titled “Is China Laying Claim to Kimchi, Too? Some South Koreans Think So,” published in early December 2020. The article quoted Cho Jung-eun, the director of the World Institute of Kimchi, who highlighted the distinct characteristics of Korean kimchi and addressed the concerns raised by South Koreans over China’s claims. She pointed out that China showed little interest in kimchi when the United Nations Food and Agriculture Organization (FAO) defined it in 2001. Chinese interest only surged when Korean immigrants established kimchi factories in China around 2003. Korean kimchi, she emphasized, is characterized by its distinct blend of garlic, ginger, and red pepper powder, setting it apart from Chinese pickles. The Times even published a Chinese version of the article online to address the issue more broadly.
In 2023, Korea's kimchi exports soared by an impressive 45.7% year-on-year, reaching $198.79 million. This surge in demand can be attributed to the growing recognition of kimchi as a health food that boosts immunity, a perception that has gained traction since the onset of the COVID-19 pandemic.
“Kimchi Day” in the U.S.
The popularity of kimchi in the United States has also led to the establishment of “Kimchi Day” in several states. On February 17, 2022, the New York State Assembly designated November 22 as “Kimchi Day,” making New York the third state to do so after California and Virginia. The resolution, proposed by Assemblymember Ron Kim, highlighted the increasing interest in and popularity of kimchi among Americans, stating, “The growing interest and popularity of kimchi as a dish in America and the State of New York, as evident by an increase in available kimchi-related food products, restaurant menu items, and interest from non-Korean consumers, represents a positive example of multicultural exchange... Kimchi is celebrated in Korea, the land of its origin, each year through the designation of November 22nd as Kimchi Day.”
In June 2022, the Washington, D.C. City Council unanimously passed a resolution to designate November 22 as “Kimchi Day.” This date is symbolically significant, representing the 11 main ingredients, such as cabbage and radish, that come together to offer 22 health benefits, including immune enhancement, antioxidation, anti-obesity, and anticancer effects.
Amid the rising global popularity of Korean culture, China's attempts to claim not only Korean-made kimchi but also other elements of Korean heritage such as sesame oil, red pepper powder, hanbok (traditional Korean clothing), pansori (traditional Korean music), and even the Dano Festival as its own have sparked widespread criticism. However, the authenticity and uniqueness of Korean kimchi, rooted in centuries-old traditions and distinct ingredients, remain unchallenged. While China’s efforts to stake a claim on kimchi may persist, it is unlikely to convince those who recognize and appreciate the true essence of this iconic Korean dish.
Sukie Park
A native Korean, Sukie Park studied journalism and film & theater in Seoul. She worked as a reporter with several Korean pop, cinema, photography and video magazines, as a writer at Korean radio (KBS-2FM 영화음악실) and television (MBC-TV 출발 비디오 여행) stations, and as a copywriter at a video company(대우 비디오). Since she moved to New York City, Sukie covered culture and travel for The Korea Daily of New York(뉴욕중앙일보) as a journalist. In 2012 she founded www.NYCultureBeat.com, a Korean language website about cultural events, food, wine, shopping, sightseeing, travel and people. She is also the author of the book recently-published in Korea, "한류를 이해하는 33가지 코드: 방탄소년단(BTS), '기생충' 그리고 '오징어 게임'을 넘어서 (33 Keys to Decoding the Korean Wave: Beyond BTS, Parasite, and Squid Game)."
- 한류를이해하는33가지코드,
- 느림의미학,
- 김치와고추장,
- 발효음식,
