111개 아이템으로 본 패션 100년

Items: Is Fashion Modern?

October 1, 2017–January 28, 2018

Museum of Modern Art

Items: Is Fashion Modern? MoMA

알렉산더 맥퀸, 중국 패션, 레이 카와쿠보 등 메트로폴리탄뮤지엄의 패션 특별전이 관람객 동원 수에서 흥행에 성공하면서 뉴욕현대미술관(MoMA)도 패션을 미술로 포용하는 전시를 시작했다.

10월 1일부터 내년 1월 28일까지 열리는 '아이템: 패션은 모던인가?"는 패션의 근대성보다도, 패션이 모던(MoMA)에 맞는가를 검증하는 전시처럼 보인다. 실제로 MoMA에서 패션 전시가 열린 것은 1944년 이후 처음이다. 

Items: Is Fashion Modern? MoMA

MoMA는 근대 패션의 역사 100년을 함축하는 111가지의 아이템을 선정해서 내러티브를 구축한다. 

전시에는 제인 버킨이 들었던 에르메스 버킨 백을 비롯, 아란 스웨터, 백팩, 발레 플랫 슈즈,야구모자, 베레, 비키니, 카프리 바지, 샤넬 #5 향수, 카르티에 팔찌, 클로그, 다이아몬드 약혼반지, 플리스, 쪼리(flip-flops), 퍼 코트, 헤드폰, 히잡, 후디, 점프 수트, 이브생로랑의 르 스모킹 수트, 매니큐어, 마오 재킷, 미니 스커트, 파나마 모자, 진주 목걸이, 폴로 셔츠, 플랫폼 슈즈, 빨간 립스틱, 롤렉스 시계, 사파리 수트, 옷핀, 사리, 쇼올, 실크 스카프, 스피도, 스포츠 유니폼, , 하이 힐, 자외선 차단제, 스와치, 타이, 문신, 터틀넥, 트렌치 코트, 흰 T셔츠, 원더브라, 랩 드래스, 요가 팬티 등 약 350점이 소개된다. 1904년 구한말 선비와 일꾼의 모습을 담은 흑백사진도 주목을 끈다.

MoMA는 아이템 111에 미처 포함되지 못한 30가지를 추가로 선정해 전시할 예정이다. 

Items: Is Fashion Modern?

FULL LIST OF THE 111 ITEMS

# 501 Jeans (Levi’s): 1947 example from the company archive

# A-POC: Queen Textile (Issey Miyake) Example from MoMA’s collection

# Adidas Superstars: 1983 pair from the company archive

# Air Force 1s (Nike): Three 1980s pairs, from the Nike company archive and from a private lender

# Aran sweater: 1942 example from the National Museum of Ireland/ Prototype commission by Laduma Ngxokolo

# Aviator sunglasses: 1970s pair from Ray Ban’s archive

# Backpack: A 1980s Prada Vela backpack from the company archive

# Balaclava: Purchase

# Ballet flats: Examples by Repetto (2010, Bata Shoe Museum), Valentina (1940s, Museum of the City of New York), Claire McCardell (1940s, The Metropolitan Museum of Art’s Costume Institute) 

# Bandanna: Six midcentury examples from the Cooper Hewitt, Smithsonian Design Museum

# Baseball cap: Two examples from New Era, c. 1950 and 1996

# Beret: Examples from Boinas Elósegui, Laulhère

# Biker jacket: 1950s Schott One-Star Perfecto from the company archive Prototype commission by Asher Levine

# Bikini: 1970s example from the Blue Man archive

# Birkin bag: Jane Birkin’s Hermès lent by Catherine Benier Prototype by Mary Ping, lent by Collection Galéries Lafayette

# Body Meets Dress—Dress Meets Body dress (Comme des Garçons): One example from the s/s 1997 collection, lent by the Indianapolis Museum of Art Prototype on loan from Brandon Wen and Laura Zwanziger

# Breton shirt: 1960s example from Orcival’s company archive Prototype commission by Unmade

# Briefs (Y-Front): Vintage examples by Calvin Klein and Jockey

# Bucket hat: Examples by Kangol, ATA

# Burkini: Example by Ahiida

# Caftan: Two 1970s exemplars by Thea Porter from private lenders

# Capri pants: Two 1940s pairs by Sonja de Lennart from her own archive

# Cartier Love Bracelet: Lent by Cartier Collection Prototype commission by Verbal and Yoon

# Chanel No. 5: 1924 Chanel No. 5 bottle from the company archive

# Cheongsam: Two 1930s examples from the Museum of Chinese in America, New York

# Chino: 1990s Dockers from Levi’s company archives Prototype commission by Sartists 

# Converse All Stars: c.1950 pair from the Converse archive

# Clogs: 1970s pair from OlofDaughters archive, Sweden

# Coppola: Contemporary item from La Coppola Storta, Italy

# Dashiki: Examples from New Breed (c. 1968), Lagos Balogun Market (contemporary)

# Diamond engagement ring: Contemporary example by Tiffany & Co. Prototype commission by Revital Cohen and Tuur Van Balen

# Diamond stud: Contemporary example by Jacob & Company

# Door-knocker earrings: Purchase

# Down jacket: Examples by Moncler, Norma Kamali

# Dr. Martens: 1970s pair from the Victoria & Albert Museum

# Dutch wax: Two contemporary ensembles designed for Vlisco by Loza Maléombho and Stylista

# Espadrilles: 1977 Yves Saint Laurent x Castañer from the Victoria & Albert Museum, London

# Fanny pack: 1996 Vivienne Westwood x Louis Vuitton, 1990s Spark Pretty MTV

# Fitbit: Contemporary Fitbit Flex Prototype loan by Rogers Research Lab, Northwestern University

# Fleece: 1980s fleece from Patagonia’s archive

# Flip-flops: Example from Havaianas

# Fur Coat: A loan from PETA’s archives

# Gore-Tex: Marmot, Early Winters, from the GoreTex archives

# Graphic T-shirt: A range of graphic T-shirts Prototype commission by Modern Meadow

# Guayabera: Contemporary example from Ramón Puig, Miami Prototype commission by Ryohei Kawanishi

# Harem pants: 1933–35 Paul Poiret from the Kobe Fashion Museum Prototype commission by Miguel Mesa Posada

# Headphones: 1979 Sony Walkman from MoMA’s Collection

# Head wrap: Three examples--gele, doek, turban

# Hijab: Examples from Haute Hijab, Uniqlo x Hana Tajima, Capsters, Al-Amira style example

# Hoodie: 1980s example from Champion’s archive

# Jumpsuit: c. 1974 Stephen Burrows example from The Metropolitan Museum of Art’s Costume Institute Prototype commission by Richard Malone

# Keffiyeh: Purchase from Hirbawi Factory Prototype loan by Salim al-Kadi

# Kente cloth: Late 1960s example by Julie “Chez Julie” Norteye lent by the Samuel P. Harn Museum of Art, Gainesville, FL

Prototype commission by Tewobaabi master weaver, Ghana

# Kilt: A look from the A/W 1994 Anglomania collection specially remade by Vivienne Westwood

# Kippah: A range of purchased and borrowed kippot

# Lapel pin: AIDS ribbon, remembrance poppy, peace sign, American flag (MoMA collection and purchases)

# Little Black Dress: Examples by Chanel (c.1926, FIDM Museum at the Fashion Institute of Design & Merchandising), Christian Dior (c.1950, the Indianapolis Museum of Art), Givenchy (1968, The Museum at FIT), Thierry Mugler (1981, The Indianapolis Museum of Art), Rick Owens (2014, designer’s archive), Nervous System (2013, MoMA collection), Arnold Scaasi (c.1966, The Robert and Penny Fox Historic Costume Collection, Drexel University), Wolford (1990s, purchase), Versace (1994, Phoenix Art Museum), and a Utility Dress (1940s, Victoria & Albert Museum) Prototype commission by Pia Interlandi 

# Le Smoking: Yves Saint Laurent Rive Gauche(1966), lent by Maison Anouschka, Paris

# Leather pants: 1989 Mr. Leather pair from Guy Baldwin’s archive in the Leather Archives and Museum

# Leotard: 1976 example by Bonnie August x Danskin, from The Metropolitan Museum of Art’s Costume Institute

# Loafer: 1970s pair by Bass, from the Wilton Home and Farm Museum, Maine

# Manicure: Nail art sets by Chieko Nakayama (lent by The Kyoto Costume Institute) and Bernadette Thompson (purchase)

# Mao jacket: 1970s example from the Powerhouse Museum, Sydney Prototype commission by Francesco Risso of Marni

# Miniskirt: 1967 Dispo paper skirt (Meyersohn & Silverstein Ltd)

# Monogram: 1980s Dapper Dan Alpo Coat, from Dapper Dan’s archive

# Moon boot: 1970s example from Tecnica’s archive Prototype commission by Liz Ciokajlo with Maurizio Montalti

# Oxford cloth button-down shirt: 1950s example from Brooks Brothers Prototype loan by MagnaReady

# Panama hat: Contemporary example by Domingo Carranza, Ecuador

# Pearl necklace: Choker lent by Mikimoto

# Pencil skirt: Example by Janie Bryant for Mad Men Prototype commission by i-am-chen

# Plaid flannel shirt: 1980s example by Woolrich, from the company’s archive

# Platforms: Examples by Biba (1973, Victoria & Albert Museum), Buckler & Price (1993, Victoria & Albert Museum),

Buffalo (1997, Bata Shoe Museum), Delman (1940s, purchase), Noritaka Tatehana (2010, The Museum at FIT), Vivienne Westwood (1987, The Museum at FIT), Alexander McQueen(2010, private archive), unknown designers from the 1930s, 40s, and 60s (Bata Shoe Museum and Museum of the City of New York), and a pair of Elton John’s stage platforms (1974, Bata Shoe Museum)

# Polo shirt: Examples by Ralph Lauren, Lacoste, Fred Perry, from the companies’ archives

# Premaman: 1950s examples (purchases) Prototype commission by Wei Hung Chen

# Red lipstick: 1952 Revlon Fire and Ice, purchase

# Rolex watch: 1970s Rolex Datejust, private lender

# Safari suit: 1970s Yves Saint Laurent his/hers, from private lender and The Metropolitan Museum of Art’s Costume Institute

# Safety pin: 1977/78 McLaren/Westwood/Reid “God Save the Queen” shirt from private lender

#Sari: Vintage banarasi, contemporary khadi by Rta Kapur Chishti, contemporary Raw Mango, and vintage “grandmother” sari, lent by Malika Verma Kashyap

# Seven Easy Pieces: Seven 1980s pieces from the Donna Karan archive Salwar kameez Contemporary high school uniform from Pakistan, purchase 

# Shawl: Three contemporary examples from Kashmir Loom, India

# Shift dress: Examples by Anne Klein (c. 1960, purchase), Helmut Lang (1994, MAK Vienna), Marimekko (1966, Design Museum Finland), Lilly Pulitzer (1960s, purchase), Paco Rabanne (1968, Kobe Fashion Museum), Phelan (2016, from the designer) Prototype commission by Bolt Threads + Stella McCartney 

# Shirt dress: c. 1974 Halston, lent by The Robert and Penny Fox Historic Costume Collection, Drexel University

# Silk scarf: c. 1960 Hermès, lent by Catherine Bernier

# Slip dress: Examples by Calvin Klein, 1994 and 1995, lent by the PVH Archive Prototype commission by Richard Nicholl and XO

# Snugli: A 1971 Snugli babycarrier from Ann and Mike Moore

# Space Age (Pierre Cardin): Two 1967 examples from Cardin’s Cosmos Collection from the Victoria & Albert Museum Prototype commission by Pyer Moss 

# Spanx: Purchase

# Speedo: Team USA 1968 men’s suit (Powerhouse Museum, Sydney) and Team Canada 1976 women’s suit (purchase)

# Sports jersey: Colin Kaepernick’s, Pelé’s, MichaelJordan's, New Zealand Rugby Black Ferns 

# Stilettos: Stereotypes by Roger Vivier (Bata Shoe Museum, 1954), Manolo Blahnik, Jimmy Choo, Christian Louboutin (contemporary examples from the company archives) 

# Suit: Examples from the archives of Anderson & Sheppard (2017), Thom Browne (2017), Yohji Yamamoto (2004), Carlo Brandelli (2001–08), Giorgio Armani (men’s and women’s suits from the 1990s), Bill Blass (1970, lent by the Philadelphia Museum of Art), Burton’s (1945–54, lent by Leeds City Museum), and a Zoot Suit (1940–42, lent by Los Angeles County Museum of Art)

# Sunscreen:Bain de Soleil/Coppertone, purchase

# Surgical mask: Contemporary samples purchased in Tokyo Prototype loan by Zhijun Wang

# Swatch: 1980s and 1990s examples from the Swatch archive

# Tabi boot: Five examples (dating 1989–2008) from Maison Martin Margiela, MoMu Antwerp, and a private lender

# Tattoo: A selection of global tattoo designs Tevac.1988 example from the company’s archive

# Tie: Examples lent by Marinella(contemporary), Van Heusen, and Arrow (purchased, midcentury)

# Tights/pantyhose: c.1959 Glen Raven Prototype commissions by Somarta and Lucy Jones 

# Tracksuit: A special remake of Bruce Lee’s 1971–72 Longstreet tracksuit, from the Bruce Lee Foundation

# Trench coat: Contemporary Burberry Westminster Heritage Trench Prototype loan by Anne van Galen

# Turtleneck: 1980 example by Issey Miyake Unisex Project (Rudi Gernreich) Two 1970 bodysuits from FIDM Museum at the Fashion Institute of Design & Merchandising and The Metropolitan Museum of Art’s Costume Institute 

# White T-shirt: Contemporary Hanes example

# Wonderbra: An early 1990s example, purchase

# Wrap dress (Diane von Furstenberg): 1974 from the designer’s archive

# Y-3 (Yohji Yamamoto): Examples from the 2001 and 2003 collections, lent by The Kyoto Costume Institute

# Yoga pants: 1998 Lululemon “Boogie” pant

# YSL Touche Éclat: Purchase

The Museum of Modern Art

 *현대미술의 시작과 끝: MoMA 하이라이트

*조지아 오키프의 옷장을 열다@브루클린뮤지엄

*MoMA Modern 바룸 일요일 BYOB 디너