33 Keys to Decoding the Korean Wave, Hallyu! #13 EAT 

#13 People who enjoy eating, drinking, singing and dancing

<1> Eat (음/飮/EAT)

 

'Dancers' mural in 'Dance Tomb' of Goguryeo in the late 5th century in Jilin Province, China

 

Since we were people with a lot of 'Han(恨)', should we have resolved that Han with 'Heung(興)'?

 

In fact, Koreans have enjoyed eating, drinking, singing, and dancing since ancient times. It seems that we were born with the DNA of them. 

 

During the Three Kingdoms period in China (220-280 AD), when the three kingdoms of Wei, Shu, and Wu established China, Jin Su (陳壽) from the Western Jin, compiled 'Dongyi' in "The Records of the Three Kingdoms". In the Buyeo section of the Korea chapter, it is stated that "the Jecheon event held for the New Year is a national convention, where people eat, drink, sing, and dance every day, and the name is called Yeonggo." In the section of Goguryeo, it is written, "The people love singing and dancing, and at night in every village in the country, men and women gather in groups to sing and enjoy games."

 

 

Kim Hong-do (1745-1806), Saecham, <Danwon Customs Painting Album>, Treasure No. 527, Collection of the National Museum of Korea

 

In the Mahan section, Jin Su wrote: "Every year in May, the seeds are finished, and the sacrifices are held to the ghosts. They gather in groups to enjoy singing and dancing, drinking and playing, day and night. In their dance, dozens of people all got up and followed, stepping on the ground and bending over. They raise their hands and feet while keeping pace with each other,” and in the Byunhan section, “They like to sing, dance, and drink.”

 

<1> EAT 

 

Why Korean-American musician Michelle Zauner cries at H Mart

 

 

"What I never seem to forget is what my mother ate. She was a woman of many 'usuals.' Half a patty melt on rye with a side of steak fries to share at the Terrace Cafe after a day of shopping. An unsweetened iced tea with half a packet of Splenda, which she would insist she'd never use on anything else. Minestrone she'd order 'steamy hot,' not 'steaming hot,' with extra broth, from the Olive Garden. On special occasions, half a dozen oysters on the half shell with champagne mignonette and 'steamy hot' French onion soup from Jake's in Portland. She was maybe the only person in the world who'd request 'steamy hot' fries from a McDonald's drive-through in earnest. Jjamppong, spicy seafood noodle soup with extra vegetables from Cafe Seoul, which she always called Seoul Cafe, transposing the syntax of her native tongue. She loved roasted chestnuts in the winter, though they gave her horrible gas. She liked salted peanuts with light beer. She drank two glasses of Chardonnay almost every day but would get sick if she had a third. She ate spicy pickled peppers with pizza. At Mexican restaurants, she ordered finely chopped jalapeños on the side. She ordered dressings on the side. She hated cilantro, avocados, and bell peppers. She was allergic to celery. She rarely ate sweets, with the exception of the occasional pint of strawberry Häagen-Dazs, a bag of tangerine jelly beans, one or two See's chocolate truffles around Christmastime, and a blueberry cheesecake on her birthday. She rarely snacked or had breakfast. She had a salty hand."

-"Crying at H Mart," by Michelle Zauner, 2021, Alfred A. Knopf-

 

In the spring of 2021, New York-based Korean-American musician Michelle Zauner in New York published her memoir, "Crying in H Mart," which became a hot topic. Beginning with the sentence, "Ever since my mother passed away, I only cry when I go to H Mart," this book is about Michelle Zauner, who grew up eating Korean food such as kimchi, pork belly, and seaweed soup cooked by her late Korean mother. It records and revisits her memories of times spent with mother while buying ingredients and cooking.

 

In her book, Zauner mentionsed Korean food such as Jangjorim(braised beef in soy sauce), Dongchimi(radish water kimchi), Samgyeopsal(pork belly), Miyeokgook (seaweed soup), Shin Ramyun, Tteokbokki, Jjajangmyeon, Mulnaengmyeon, Jjanggu Snacks, Jollypong (sweets made with fried wheat rice coated in sugar solution), etc. Korean food is also a journey for Zauner, born to a Caucasian father and a Korean mother, to find her roots and identity. Half Korean, Michelle Zauner was able to reflect on her mother's love and her Korean culture through her Korean food, even though she couldn't speak Korean well. "Crying at H Mart" was also selected as a "Book of the Year" by the New York Times and NPR (National Public Radio) in 2021, as well as a recommended book by former US President Barack Obama.

 

Ironically, Michelle Zauner has been active as the vocalist and guitarist of a successful indie pop band called "Japanese Breakfast," which she founded. Her album "Jubilee" earned her nominations for Best New Artist and Alternative Music Album at the 2022 Grammy Awards.

 

 

Rice cooked in a cauldron. Photo: Wikipedia

 

"民惟邦本, 食爲民天. (The people are the foundation of the country, food is the people's heaven.)" - King Sejong the Great, 'Annals of Sejong' (1444) -

 

In Korean culture, the act of eating holds significant meaning and is deeply intertwined with social interactions. The question "Have you eaten?" serves as a common greeting among Koreans. When expressing concern, Koreans may ask, "Do you eat for a living?" When showing gratitude, one might say, "I'll treat you to a meal." Even when asking someone out on a date, it is common to say, "Would you like to have a meal with me?"

 

Certain expressions and idioms related to food are used to convey various emotions or situations. For example, "cold rice" refers to being treated poorly, "Nunchibap" describes a state of discomfort, and "eating cold porridge" implies something that is easy to do. The phrase "one pot rice" symbolizes family, work, or an organization.

 

Furthermore, Korean language incorporates food-related expressions such as "eating ages" (getting older), "eating heart" (making a decision), "eating ae" (going through difficulty), "eating scare" (being scared), "eating money" (taking profits), and "eating a curse" (being humiliated). These phrases illustrate how deeply food and eating are embedded in Korean culture and language.

 

Because cooked rice, Bap, was the staple food, there are many proverbs about rice (ssal), bap, and rice cakes (ddeok). “You can help if you have enough rice in the jar,” “You are not sincerely interested in praying, just in the offering (jetbap),” “The beans in other people’s rice look bigger,” “Even beggars, if they are diligent, get hot rice,” “When you have rice cake, you should hold ancestral rites (Make hay while the sun shines),” “The rice cakes that look good are good to eat,” “I’ll give another rice cake to the child who you hate. (Kill your enemy with kindness),” “Don’t drink kimchi soup first, when no one wants to give you rice cake (Don't count your chickens before they're hatched),” and so on.

 

 

Bean sprout soup at Miss Korea BBQ restaurant in Koreatown, New York Photo: MissKorea BBQ Restaurant, NYC

 

On a Korean dining table, rice usually comes with soup. Are there other people who like soup like Koreans? Depending on the recipe, there are various soups (gook, tang), stews (jjigae), and hotpots (jeongol), and rice cake soup, radish soup, soybean paste soup, pollack soup, kimchi soup, bean sprout soup, “hangover soup,” cold cucumber soup, bean soup... , haemul (seafood) tang , gamja (potato) tang, chueo (mud fish) tang... kimchi stew, doenjang jjigae (soybean paste stew), gochujang jjigae (red pepper paste stew), soft tofu stew,  biji (bean curd) stew, cheonggukjang (fermented soybean paste) stew, budae (army base) stew, ... and shared seafood hotpot, octopus hotpot, dumpling hotpot, tofu hotpot, mushroom hotpot, tripe hotpot, and mulhoe (raw fish in cold broth), to name a few.

 

The United States, where meat is surplus, is a country of steak. Meanwhile, in Korea, which was poor, even a piece of meat had to be shared with the whole family, so boiling soup would be the recipe that gives maximum satisfaction with minimum cost. In addition, soup is the food that warms the body in the cold winter, and cold rice can be served with hot soup. Soup is a food that comforts even the empty heart. So “No soup” is a terrifying threat. 

 

Yi Gun Sam's (1926-2003) play, “There is a Soup” (1966), depicts a new employee dreaming of success becoming corrupt. "There is a Soup" is the opposite meaning of "There is no Soup." This black comedy, set in a Korean steel company during the 1960s, portrays the transformation of an ordinary male employee, the protagonist, who realizes the fact that 'living a good life leads to losses'. He becomes a ruthless individual willing to resort to any means necessary for success and advancement. The term 'soup' here refers to 'unscrupulous gains or side income obtained through questionable means' in this context. This work satirizes the prevailing societal values of ambition and opportunism."

 

 

BBQ Meal at Miss Korea BBQ Restaurant in K-Town, Manhattan Photo: MissKorea BBQ Restaurant, NYC

 

The typical Korean dining table is set with rice, soup, and side dishes which are also a harmony of dry and wet food, yin and yang, meat and vegetables. It is a table containing the wisdom and philosophy of our ancestors. Compared to Western course meals, Korean table setting with side dishes gives the eater freedom of choice. Korean housewives have to pay attention to each meal so that their families do not complain about side dishes (banchans), and housewives are superwomen who make 3 to -5 -side dishes of home-cooked meals quickly.

 

For quite some time, high-end Korean restaurants in New York have rearranged their menus to match Western-style courses. However, the generous table setting of Korean food, where banchans, which are 'small dishes' like Spanish tapas, are provided free of charge, shows the affection (jeong) of the Korean people. When Koreans invite guests for dinner, they usually prepare many dishes, to the extent that the table legs bend.

Pioneer of video art Nam June Paik, who left Korea at the age of 17, and married a Japanese video artist, Shigeko Kubota, praised Korean food from an early age.

 

“Compared to the Japanese food culture, which uses the characteristics of each ingredient and savors each one, our cuisine is the opposite way, in which all side dishes are served at once. It is a random access method.  Praise comes out naturally for the unique existence value of our food method, which contains techniques and philosophies suitable for adapting to the future electronic circuit age and the global age of globalization.”

-Nam June Paik, The spirit of Bibimbap and Daejeon Expo 93-

 

Koreans are passionate about food, and eating is the priority even when they travel, as “You should eat even before you go to the Diamond Mountain (A loaf of bread is better than the song of many birds).” So Korean travelers' behaviors have often become a sensation in the news. Koreans like to travel with Korean ingredients to be able to make a quick Korean meal any time. Some Koreans walking along the Camino de Santiago in Spain were often seen grilling pork belly withand smoking soju and kimchi at the albergue (accommodation). 

 

As such, eating is important to Koreans, and food is an important material for Korean artists. It is not surprising that Korean food culture appears not only in dramas, movies, and musicals from the Korean Wave, but also, cartoons that created sensational movies and dramas in Korea are often stories about food. 

 

 

#1 TV drama "Dae Jang Geum (Jewel in the Palace)" Syndrome

 

"Dae Jang Geum" (left), a drama exported to Asia and Africa, and "Jewels of the Palace," a cookbook of "Dae Jang Geum," published in English.

 

In 2003, MBC-TV's historical drama "Dae Jang Geum (Jewel in the Palace)" depicted the story of Seo Jang Geum, an orphaned kitchen cook who became the King's first female physician in the Joseon Dynasty. She strives to learn the secrets of Korean cooking and medicine to treat the King's various ailments.

 

Not only did the drama cause a sensation, but it was also exported worldwide and accelerated the Korean wave. Beyond Asia (where the show was broadcasted in North Korea, Japan, China, Thailand, and Sri Lanka), it was aired in Iran, Turkey, Romania, and Zimbabwe, and brought actress Lee Young-ae to global stardom. Unlike previous concubines like Jang Hee-bin, the success story of the court lady was not just a K-Drama but also content that promoted high-end Korean food culture (K-Food), such as royal cuisine.

 

Interest in royal cuisine such as Tarakjuk, Yeongeunggi, Gangran, Persimmon Juksunchae, Maekjeok, Yeolgujatang, Three-color Danja, Hwayangjeok, Pomegranate Dumpling Soup, and Gujeolpan, which appeared in "Dae Jang Geum," sparked interest in 70 recipes and the philosophy of the Joseon Dynasty. "Jewels of the Palace: Royal Recipes from Old Korea, 2017," a cookbook of Korean traditional food, has also been published in English.

 

#2 Sikgaek: From Comics to Movies (Le Grand Chef) to Dramas (Gourmet)

 

Huh Young-man's newspaper serial cartoon (manhwa) for the Dong-A Ilbo newspaper, "Sikgaek" (from left), director Jeon Yoon-soo's movie "Le Grand Chef," SBS-TV drama "Gourmet," and Kim Young-sa's complete collection of comics (27 volumes) "Sikgaek."

 

The best-selling cartoonist Huh Young-man's "Sikgaek" began publication as a cartoon series in the Dong-A Ilbo newspaper in Korea in 2002 and was later adapted into a movie, drama, and even published as a complete collection of cartoons. This is an example of how much passion and pride the Korean people have in food.

 

The cartoon "Sikgaek" ran for 135 episodes and told the delicious story of the taste and style of Korean food, including rice, cooked rice, kimchi, bibimbap, salt, soybean paste, beef ribs, gochujang gulbi, seolleongtang, samgyetang, yukgaejang, budaejjigae, alongsatae, cheonggukjang, maesaengi, bean noodles, pork feet, webfoot octopus, gwamegi, mustard leaf kimchi, skate, flatfish, mackerel, mineo, anglerfish, sweetfish, pike eel, sardine, cod, moolhoe, pirami, pancake, tofu, salted oyster, beef stew soup, kimbap, sujebi, tarakjuk, buckwheat jelly, hwangpomuk, tteokbokki, sikhye, chicken gangjeong, bone hangover soup, gondre rice, azalea hwajeon, flounder sikhae, banquet noodles, young radish kimchi noodles, makguksu, red bean noodles, jajangmyeon, tadpole noodles, clam kalguksu, Pyongyang naengmyeon, Hamheung naengmyeon, Jinju naengmyeon, strong soybean paste, cucumber pickle, flounder mugwort, olgaengi soup, barley rice, pork skin, kimchi stew, Donglae green onion pancake, hangwa, omija, songpyeon, rice cake soup, hotteok, Ibaji food, takju, rice wine, and soju.

 

In 2007, based on "Sikgaek," director Jeon Yoon-soo made the movie "Le Grand Chef," and the following year, SBS-TV produced a 24-episode drama titled "Gourmet" (PD Choi Jong-soo), which continued the craze. In 2019, Kim Young-sa published a 27-volume collection of "Sikgaek." Additionally, a vintage restaurant named Sikgaek was opened in New York. In 2015, Huh Young-man published a series of cartoons titled "Shall we have a cup of coffee?" in the JoongAng Ilbo.

 

#3 Non-verbal Musical "COOKIN'"

 

The non-verbal musical "Cookin'," which had a long Off-Broadway run in New York, is set in a kitchen.

 

The stage of the non-verbal musical "Cookin'" (Nanta/亂打), which premiered in New York City in 2003 at the New Victory Theater in Times Square (499 seats), is a kitchen. It depicts the commotion that ensues when the manager brings in his nephew and instructs the cooks to prepare the wedding reception food by 6 p.m. The show combines conflict, deadline, food, and rhythm.

 

Song Seung-hwan, the creator of "Cookin'," drew inspiration from off-Broadway non-verbal performances like "Blue Man Group" and "STOMP" while living in New York in the late 1980s. The show incorporates elements of Samulnori (percussion music with four traditional instruments), Madangnori (traditional Korean theater combining various forms of folk entertainment such as puppetry, mask dances, and traditional percussion music), magic, acrobatics, comedy, pantomime, and audience participation. In "Cookin'," kitchen chefs create rhythmic sounds using kitchen knives, frying pans, pots, plates, and spatulas in scenes such as the dumpling contest, bulgogi cooking, and kung fu fighting.

 

The American "Blue Man Group" drew inspiration from the abstract expressionist painter Jackson Pollock's action painting, while the British show "STOMP" features sounds made from everyday items like brooms, trash cans, Zippo lighters, plastic bags, and sand. In contrast, the Korean production of "Cookin'" focuses on the concept of food, the kitchen, and a wedding reception.

 

"Cookin'," which premiered in Seoul in 1997, made its Off-Broadway debut in March 2003 at the New Victory Theater on 42nd Street. It also had an extended run until March at Greenwich Village's Minetta Lane Theater (391 seats, Off-Broadway). Contrary to earlier reports in Korea, the New Victory Theater is classified as Off-Broadway due to its 499 seats. As of 2021, "Cookin'" has exceeded 15 million viewers and continues to be performed in Seoul and Jeju Island.

 

 

#4 Food Codes in the movie "Parasite"

 

In the movie "Parasite," food is used as a symbol of social class and serves as a code that reinforces the characters and the story.

 

Director Bong Joon-ho's "Parasite" is a film that heavily utilizes food symbolism. In one scene, Ki-woo, a character played by Song Kang-ho, holds up a scholar's rock given to him as a gift by a friend and remarks on its symbolic nature.

 

The Kim family, who reside in a semi-basement, have a strong connection to the food industry. They have experienced failed ventures in running a fried chicken restaurant and a Taiwanese castella (sponge cake) chain. As a side job, the entire family works together folding boxes at a delivery pizzeria. Mr. Kim, the patriarch (played by Song Kang-ho), even resorts to eating moldy bread due to their financial struggles. However, when Ki-woo and Ki-jung secure tutoring jobs for Mr. Park's children, they treat their parents to a meal at a buffet restaurant for taxi drivers.

 

Food also plays a role in the interactions between characters. Moon-gwang, the housekeeper at Mr. Park's residence, pretends to serve maesilcheong (plum syrup) while secretly watching Ki-jung's class. Ki-jung takes advantage of Moon-gwang's allergy to peaches. Additionally, Mr. Park complains to his wife, Yeon-gyo, about Mr. Kim's smell, likening it to "dried radish." This scene further adds to the mounting tension and anger felt by Mr. Kim.

 

Throughout "Parasite," food serves as a significant metaphor, representing the stark class divisions and the power dynamics between characters. It reflects the struggles and aspirations of the Kim family while highlighting the disparities in their lives compared to the affluent Park family.

 

 

"Parasite" 

 

In the movie "Parasite," there is a memorable food scene involving Jjapaguri, a dish created by combining two popular instant noodle brands, Chapagetti and Neoguri.

 

After returning from a camping trip in heavy rain, Yeon-gyo, the lady of the house, asks Chung-suk, the new housekeeper and Mr. Kim's wife, to add Korean beef strips to Jjapaguri. This transforms the instant ramen dish from a common convenience food into a high-end dish with the addition of Korean beef steak garnish. The combination of Chapagetti and Neoguri noodles is referred to as "ramdon" (a mix of ramen and udon) in English.

 

Another food-related scene involves Geun-sae, Moon-gwang's husband, who resides in the underground shelter. In his first appearance, Geun-sae is seen eating Mi-eum (a popular Korean snack) and bananas from a baby bottle given to him by his wife. These foods symbolize appetite and sexual desire, and Geun-sae, a middle-aged man, is portrayed as someone stuck in the "oral stage" of development, a concept proposed by Sigmund Freud. Later, Geun-sae gets into a physical altercation with the Kim family, and when he emerges, he drinks plum syrup straight from the bottle, covered in blood and sweat.

 

The contrasting food scenes highlight the differences between the proletarian Kim family and the wealthy Park family. The Kim family, despite their poverty, showcases strong familial bonds through their shared meals. In contrast, the Park family rarely eats together and is portrayed as an atomized family scattered throughout their spacious mansion. Director Bong Joon-ho employs food details and metaphors, known as "Bongtail," to add depth to the storytelling in "Parasite."

 

 

The Washington Post: "How Korean food philosophy can help us reconnect"

 

During the COVID-19 pandemic in June 2021, The Washington Post published an article titled "How Korean food philosophy can help us reconnect." Although Korean food has been a part of the mainstream for years, the newspaper reported that the value behind satisfying dishes is needed more than ever.

 

The article highlighted that gochujang (red bean paste) and bibimbap frequently appear on the menus of trendy restaurants, and K-Pop songs are included in playlists on streaming music services. The Post pointed out that popular Korean chefs like Roy Choi and David Chang have played a role in introducing bulgogi and bossam (roasted pork shoulder) to the American foodie lexicon.

 

The Post explained that while Americans now regularly consume K-food such as kimchi and bulgogi, Korean food culture goes beyond just delicious flavors. It emphasizes the experience and meaningful customs behind it. The article emphasized that the Korean tradition emphasizes the importance of time and loving attention in the preparation of every ingredient, a philosophy that is mirrored in the practice of connecting with the people gathered around the table. Additionally, in a year that celebrates reuniting with family and friends, the principles and values behind Korean cuisine resonate even more deeply.

 

The article identified three principles of Korean cuisine. First, nature and time are key. Korean food tradition preserves ingredients to provide essential nutrients that can be enjoyed throughout the year. This includes fermented foods like kimchi and fermented soybeans, which are beneficial for digestive health. The second principle is the philosophy of "food is medicine" (yak sik dong won, 藥食同源). Kimchi, for example, not only contains healthy fiber and probiotics but also helps activate the gut biome and immune system. Additionally, Korean cuisine's abundance of heart-healthy seafood, diverse vegetables, and herbs like ginseng contribute to a balanced and nutritious diet. The third principle revolves around the concept of balance. Representative dishes like bibimbap satisfy the balance of carbohydrates, fiber, and protein in a single dish. A balanced feast fosters the Korean concept of bapsang, which refers to a table set up for shared enjoyment and serves as the foundation for every good meal.

 

The article also praised mandu (dumplings) as a representation of these three principles. Mandu, a delicious food consumed during the Lunar New Year, symbolizes a way to welcome health, well-being, and prosperity ahead. Many Korean families gather together to make mandu. The Post concluded that during the isolation and separation caused by the COVID-19 pandemic, what we need more than ever is the value behind this bold and satisfying Korean dish.  

 

 

NYT: There’s No Christmas Lunch Like a Korean American Church Lunch

 

Korean immigrants have been socializing through meals centered around churches. The New York Times published a story by Korean-American columnist Eric Kim titled "There’s No Christmas Lunch Like a Korean American Church Lunch" on December 15, 2023. This column explains that for decades, Korean church lunches have been a pivotal space for immigrants to settle in the United States and have flourished as a center of community solidarity for first-generation Korean immigrants – a place for conversation, gossip, and fellowship beyond a simple meal.

 

However, Eric Kim notes that second- and third-generation Korean Americans born in the United States are seeking a third space other than church, beyond work and home. He writes that in a world where K-pop, K-food, K-movies, K-culture, and community can be found practically everywhere, church lunch after worship has become a less important experience for young people. However, there is one exception: Christmas lunch. He states that when children go to their parents' house and are taken to church, even if only for a day, the generation gap is broken down. During Christmas lunchtime, the generations come together, speaking both English and Korean.

 

 

Sukie Park

A native Korean, Sukie Park studied journalism and film & theater in Seoul. She worked as a reporter with several Korean pop, cinema, photography and video magazines, as a writer at Korean radio (KBS-2FM 영화음악실) and television (MBC-TV 출발 비디오 여행) stations, and as a copywriter at a video company(대우 비디오). Since she moved to New York City, Sukie covered culture and travel for The Korea Daily of New York(뉴욕중앙일보) as a journalist. In 2012 she founded www.NYCultureBeat.com, a Korean language website about cultural events, food, wine, shopping, sightseeing, travel and people.