33 Keys to Decoding the Korean Wave #30 K-Fashion Rocks 

From People of White Clothes to Global Fashionistas

A market day scene at Dongrae Market in Busan during the late Joseon Dynasty. Photo: Busan Metropolitan City Museum.

How did the Korean people evolve into the world’s leading fashion trendsetters within a past 15 years? 

Once upon a time, in the land of the morning calm ... when Westerners visited Joseon during the enlightenment period, their attention was captivated by the color of the Joseon people’s attire. In his 1880 book "A Forbidden Land: Voyages to the Corea," German trader Ernst Jakob Oppert (1832-1903) noted the graceful and agile strides of the Korean people, who seemed to move with a flexibility and liveliness reminiscent of the Chinese. In comparison to the Japanese, Koreans had larger and sturdier builds. Moreover, they displayed more vigor and a greater sense of adventure compared to the Japanese... Additionally, the attire of both men and women was predominantly white. Similarly, in his 1898 book “La Coree, Independante, Russe, Ou Japonaise,” French writer Raoul-Charles Villetard de Laguérie (1858-1913) depicted Koreans walking slowly and heavily, emphasizing that everyone adorned white attire.

Various theories attempt to explain the origin of the Korean people’s inclination for white clothing. The most influential among them suggests that white, symbolizing heaven and earth, is an immortal color deeply rooted in the unique faith of worshiping heaven and earth. This belief gave rise to the tradition of wearing white clothes, as well as using white rice cake, white rice, and white alcohol during ancestral rites.

The exceptional fashion sense of the Korean people throughout history should not be overlooked. Highlights include the costumes depicted in the mural paintings in a tomb of Goguryeo, the opulent court costumes of the Joseon Dynasty, the fashion of courtesans, and the hats of scholars that gained global attention through the Netflix drama “Kingdom,” as well as the saekdong jeogori (a girl’s jacket with sleeves of multicolored stripes). The "white clothes" people, pursuing pure, simple, lofty, and clean ideals reminiscent of Joseon's white porcelain moon jars, have now become global fashion icons.

#Hallyu Stars Appointed as Luxury Brand Ambassadors

BTS photographed wearing Louis Vuitton on the cover of Rolling Stone’s June 2021 issue / Rosé (Black Pink) decorating the billboard of Tiffany’s main store building on Manhattan's 5th Avenue. Photo: X/Twitter

Descendants of the white-robed people, Korean Wave popstars and actors are increasingly receiving calls from luxury brands worldwide, being chosen as global models or brand ambassadors.

In 2016, Hallyu stars entered the realm of luxury brands, with Chanel appointing Big Bang’s G-Dragon as its global ambassador and Louis Vuitton selecting actress Bae Doo-na as its global model. The four members of Blackpink (Jisoo, Jennie, Rosé, and Lisa) leveraged K-pop’s popularity, featuring in pictorials for Vogue, Elle, Allure, Harper’s Bazaar, Marie Claire, and W. They were also chosen as global ambassadors for various brands: Rosé represents Saint Laurent and Tiffany, Lisa for Celine, Bulgari, and M.A.C., Jisoo for Dior and Cartier, and Jennie for Chanel Coco and Calvin Klein. Achieving superstardom akin to pop icons Madonna, Cher, and Adele, Jisoo, Jennie, Rosé, and Lisa are recognized by their first names alone, a testament to their global influence. The K-pop girl group Aespa also secured Givenchy’s brand ambassadorship.

In 2021, BTS was appointed as Louis Vuitton’s global ambassador.  BTS intensified its solo projects after a June 2022 hiatus, and the BTS members are now serving as global ambassadors for numerous luxury brands: Jimin for Dior and Tiffany, Suga for Valentino, J-Hope for Louis Vuitton, Jungkook for Calvin Klein, RM for Bottega Veneta, and V for Celine and Cartier. As of July 2023, all members except Jin, currently serving in the military, serve as fashion ambassadors.

Other notable appointments include Kai (EXO), Chanyeol (EXO), and Jaehyun (NCT) for Prada, Taeyang (BIGBANG) for Givenchy, An Yujin (IVE) for Fendi, actor Lee Jung-jae for Gucci, actress Kim Go-eun for Chanel, actress Son Ye-jin for Valentino, actor Park Bo-gum for Celine, actor Jeong Ho-yeon, and actor Kang Dong-won for Louis Vuitton. Soccer star Son Heung-min actively serves as a global ambassador for Burberry and Calvin Klein.

Blackpink made history as the first Asian girl group on the cover of Rolling Stone in June 2022, following BTS’s feature in June 2021. This marks the third female group cover in Rolling Stone’s history, after the Spice Girls in 1997 and Destiny’s Child in 2001.

The inclusion of global stars BTS and Blackpink members as faces of luxury brands not only signifies a shift in beauty standards, broadening to include Asian faces, but also reflects changes in fashion brands, not just within the Asia-Pacific but also in North America, where the fan base for these K-pop stars is robust. This underscores the acceleration of targeted marketing, with K-stars boasting tens of millions of followers on Instagram. Their continued popularity in the fashion market creates a synergy effect for K-Wave. 

2015년 지드래곤과 샤넬 디자이너 고 칼 라거펠트(1933-2019)  Photo: Chanel

2015 G-Dragon with the late Chanel designer Karl Lagerfeld (1933-2019) Photo: Chanel

BTS and Blackpink aren’t the first Korean Wave stars to shine in the fashion world. The fashion-forward G-Dragon (also known as GD or Kwon Ji-yong), leader of the four-member boy band BIGBANG, has been a global fashion icon since 2010. G-Dragon sparked conversations at a Chanel VIP party, showcasing an eye-catching ensemble of Chanel’s T-shirt jacket, jeans, and jewelry. Since Chanel’s 2015/16 season, he has consistently been invited as a guest to Haute Couture, sharing the stage with Hollywood luminaries like Gwyneth Paltrow, Monica Bellucci, and Diane Kruger.

In 2016, G-Dragon ventured into the fashion realm with his brand, PEACEMINUSONE, unveiling limited-edition clothing. Recognizing his influence, British fashion magazine BoF (Business of Fashion) named G-Dragon one of the 500 influential fashion figures in the world in 2019.

Hallyu stars, boasting tens of millions of social media followers, wield significant influence in the fashion landscape. According to data analysis company ListenFirst, K-pop stars, including members of BTS, Blackpink, and EXO’s main dancer Kai (Kim Jong-in), dominated luxury fashion posts in 2021. Alongside them were global figures like Harry Styles, Anya Taylor-Joy, Dua Lipa, Dakota Johnson, and Billie Eilish.

As of February 2024, BTS continues to dominate social media with a staggering 74.3 million followers on Instagram. Individual member counts are as follows: V (64 million), Jungkook (55 million - *withdrawn), Jimin (53 million), J-Hope (49 million), Suga (49 million), Jin (48 million), and RM (45.5 million). In parallel, Blackpink maintains a robust presence with 58 million followers on Instagram (blackpinkofficial). Individual member counts are noteworthy, with Lisa leading at 101 million, followed by Jennie (84 million), Jisoo (77 million), and Rosé (76 million).

G-Dragon’s Instagram post, which garnered over 4 million views before the Chanel collection digital show, generated an MIV (Media Impact Value) exceeding $1 million, ranking him as the fourth biggest celebrity of Paris Fashion Week. On the day Rosé was announced as Tiffany's promotional ambassador, Tiffany saw mentions in over 60,000 Twitter posts, marking a 506% increase from the previous day. Notably, Kai’s TikTok dance video earned the highest reactions for a Gucci post this year. Social media, influencers, and K-pop stars are undeniably shaping the fashion market. All signs point to K-pop.

#Dongdaemun: From the Periphery to the “Mecca of Fashion”

Dongdaemun Design Plaza night view.  Photo: Visit Seoul 

Just as New York has the “fashion center” Garment District, Seoul proudly claims Dongdaemun Market as its own fashion center. The roots of contemporary Korean fashion can be traced back to Dongdaemun Market, a bustling hub where wholesale and retail stores, fabric shops, and sewing factories converge, earning it the title of “the world's largest fashion cluster.” This vibrant district seamlessly integrates design, production, and sales within its confines, facilitating a rapid process that can transform new designs into sales within a mere two days. Comprising approximately 30,000 stores, including a clothing wholesale market and a diverse shopping mall, Dongdaemun Market employs around 150,000 individuals, achieves daily sales of approximately 50 billion won, and draws an annual influx of approximately 8 million foreign visitors.

Recognized as a special tourist zone for Dongdaemun Fashion Town in 2002, the Dongdaemun Design Plaza (DDP), an architectural marvel designed by the late Zaha Hadid (1950-2016) and unveiled in 2014, has secured its place as a must-visit attraction, earning a spot on the New York Times’ “52 must-visit attractions in 2015” list.

One notable success story emerging from this vibrant district is that of “shopping mall star” Kim So Hee. A modern-day Cinderella of Dongdaemun Market, at the age of 22 in 2005 she achieved remarkable success by procuring Dongdaemun clothing at competitive prices and retailing it on the online shopping mall Stylenanda, known for its trendy appeal. 

In April 2018, Stylenanda sold 70% of its shares to L’Oréal for 400 billion won, equivalent to $37.21 billion USD. Nevertheless, in May 2018, Kim reversed her decision and opted to retain a 30% stake in the business. According to industry sources, the total cost of the acquisition by L’Oréal is estimated to have ranged between 570 billion won and 600 billion won for the complete 100% stake.

A solitary fashion enterprise hailing from Dongdaemun was transformed into the protagonist of an urban legend, garnering attention from L’Oréal. This conglomerate, renowned for its ownership of esteemed brands such as Lancome, Giorgio Armani, Yves Saint Laurent, Kiehl’s, and Body Shop, made the decision to acquire this emerging fashion entity from Korea.

#Fast Fashion: The Myth of Forever 21

Forever 21’s Do Won Chang and Jin Sook Chang graced the cover of Forbes magazine, securing the 222nd spot in the 2016 Top 400 Richest People in America.

The era of disposable fast fashion, swiftly transitioning from the runway to retail, has significantly influenced the global fashion choices of the younger generation. In the early 21st century, competitors like H&M from Sweden, UNIQLO from Japan, Zara from Spain, Topshop from Britain, and the American brand Forever 21 emerged, challenging the dominance of luxury boutiques on Fifth Avenue in New York City.

Established in 1984 by the LA-based couple Do Won Chang and his wife Jin Sook Chang, Forever 21 began as a small clothing store named Fashion21. By 2015, it had evolved into a fast-fashion giant, boasting over 700 stores across 47 countries and recording annual sales of $4.4 billion. The pinnacle of its success was reflected when the founders secured a spot on Forbes magazine’s “400 Richest People in America” in 2016.

However, the “American version of the Dongdaemun myth,” as embodied by Forever 21, collapsed when it filed for bankruptcy protection in 2019. Despite embodying the Korean ethos of “Ppalli, Ppalli” (Quickly, Quickly), the reputation of the business  was tarnished, as over 50 lawsuits were filed against it by Gucci, Diane von Fürstenberg, Gwen Stefani, Anna Sui, and Ariana Grande for copyright infringement and labor law violations. The New York Times pointed out that, despite its expansive size, Forever 21 grappled with challenges as it operated more like a traditional family business.

#Why K-Fashion? Fashion Sensitivity, Sophistication, Individuality

How does the world perceive today’s K-fashion? In 2013, New York fashion designer Patricia Field spearheaded “THE K-FASHION PROJECT,” introducing Korean fashion to New York buyers and media at the Jacob Javits Center in Manhattan. Ms. Field, renowned for her work on the TV series “Sex and the City” and the movie “The Devil Wears Prada,” lauded Korean fashion as currently the most sophisticated and trendy in East Asia.

In 2008, China experienced the emergence of an online fashion enterprise named Handu.com (韩都衣舍), dedicated to offering K-fashion to Chinese consumers. Positioned as the premier Chinese platform for acquiring Korean-styled fashion apparel and accessories, Handu.com boasts a team of over 600 designers and collaborates with more than 1000 Korean fashion brands. The inclusion of Korean stars like Jun Ji-hyun, Park Shin-hye, Ji Chang-wook as models led to increased sales. This strategy reflects the acknowledgment that Koreans possess a fashion sense harmonizing colors and designs. The preference for K-fashion in China goes beyond being worn by Korean Wave stars in K-dramas; it is embraced for its natural, sophisticated, and distinct personality.

In 2017, New York fashion brand Opening Ceremony designed the Korea Varsity Jacket, featuring the Korean national flag (Taegeukgi) motif.

Kim Hee-seon, a professor of fashion design at Hanyang Women’s University, outlined the characteristics of K-fashion in her 2017 research paper “An Analysis of a Strategy for the Activation of Korean Wave K-Fashion”:

#The first is a trendy and sophisticated design with modern sensibilities, unique designs that reinterpret the latest trends with designer creativity, practicaI and popular designs that ordinary people can wear comfortably in everyday life. 

#The second is functional and trendy materials. 

#The third is excellent sewing technology. 

#The fourth is rapid turnover of products by quick connections among planning, production and sales. 

#The fifth is a lower price than quality.

Examining national flags worldwide, it’s challenging to find a flag that combines composition, color, symbolism, and philosophy as intricately as the Taegeukgi. Standing out among all flags, the Taegeukgi not only symbolizes Korea but also serves as a reflection of the Korean people’s design sensibilities. It is no coincidence that Koreans, renowned for their sharp eyes and quick wit, have emerged as leaders in popular fashion. The Taegeukgi’s unique design captures the essence of Korea’s cultural richness, contributing to the nation’s influence in the global fashion landscape.

#Willa Kim, winner of two Tonys and an Emmy 

The Wondrous Willa Kim: Costume Designs for Actors and Dancers Photo: Sukie Park/NYCultureBeat 

Willa Kim, a distinguished figure in the realms of Broadway, dance, and opera costume design, took center stage in a special exhibition, “The Amazing Willa Kim: Costume Design for Actors and Dancers,” hosted by the New York Public Library for the Performing Arts at Lincoln Center from February to August 2023. This exhibition delved into the works of Willa Kim (1917-2016), a Korean-American costume designer and a recipient of two Tony Awards.

Born as Wullah Mei Ok Kim in Santa Ana, California, in 1917, Willa Kim entered the world of costume design with a compelling legacy. Her younger brother, Colonel Young Oak Kim (1919-2005), achieved war hero status, earning the highest military decorations from Korea, France, and Italy for his exceptional contributions during World War II and the Korean War.

Willa Kim’s journey commenced in 1942 when she served as an assistant to costume designers Barbara Karinska and Raoul Pene Du Bois at Paramount Pictures in Hollywood. Her official debut as a costume designer unfolded with the Broadway musical “Are You With It?” in the fall of 1945, coinciding with the liberation of Korea. 

Regina Wine Vinegar advertisement(1989)/ Sketches of "The Will Rogers Follies"(1991)/ Ms. Willa Kim(2007) Photo: Sukie Park

In 1965, two Korean artists in New York achieved significant milestones that left an indelible mark on the art world. Nam June Paik, who relocated from Germany to New York in 1964, made history by capturing Pope John Paul VI’s motorcade during the Pope’s visit to New York in a taxi using Sony’s portable video camera “Portapak” on October 4, 1965. The 20-minute recorded video, initially showcased to friends at Café au Go-Go in Greenwich Village, officially marked the inception of video art in art history.

Concurrently, during the same year, Willa Kim made noteworthy contributions as a costume designer for the play “The Old Glory.” Based on Robert Lowell’s original work and directed by Jonathan Miller, the production unfolded at the American Place Theater in Greenwich Village. This play not only garnered acclaim but also clinched Obie Awards in 1965, recognizing its excellence in both Best Play and Costume Design, further solidifying Willa Kim’s impact on the Off-Broadway theater scene.

Willa Kim’s career milestones continued for more than four decades, as she designed 200 costumes for the American Ballet Theater’s “Sleeping Beauty” in 2007, at the remarkable age of 90. Her vast portfolio includes contributions to 46 Broadway plays, 22 musicals, 102 dances, 15 TV shows, and numerous commercials. Notably, she received six Tony Award nominations, winning for “Sophisticated Ladies” in 1981, and “The Will Rogers Follies” in 1991. Additionally, she secured Drama Desk Awards and Obie Awards for her remarkable achievements in theater. In 2014, Korean designer Linda Cho continued the legacy, winning the Tony Award for Costume Design for the musical “A Gentleman’s Guide to Love and Murder.”

I had the privilege of meeting Willa Kim in 2007 at the Korean Cultural Center in New York, where at the age of 90, she maintained an upright posture and exuded timeless elegance, as well as revealing her deep love for Korean rice cakes, underscoring her enduring connection to her Korean heritage. The 2023 exhibition at the New York Library for the Performing Arts was a tribute to Willa Kim’s exceptional contributions to the arts and honored her profound impact on the world of costume design.

In 2014, Korean American designer Linda Cho continued her legacy by winning the Tony Award for Costume Design for the musical "A Gentleman's Guide to Love and Murder." Ms. Cho was nominated for the Tony, Outer Critics Circle, and Drama Desk awards for Best Costume Design for the musical "Anastasia" in 2017. She is also nominated for the 2024 Tony Award for the musical "The Great Gatsby," produced by Shin Chun-soo. (*Tony Awards on June 16)

#From ‘Korean Kimono’ to Korean Hanbok Day 

Hanbok Designer Lee Young-hee’s memoir/ “The Hanbok Master Who Went to Paris” (Design House, 2008) / In December 2012, the Korean Art Society (president Robert Turley), a group of Korean art lovers in New York, viewed the collection of the Lee Young-hee Korean Culture Museum in Manhattan. Photo: Korean Art Society

The late Lee Young-hee (1936-2018), a trailblazing designer of hanbok (traditional Korean clothing), stands as a pioneer who introduced hanbok to the world, aspiring to create a fashion brand as iconic as Louis Vuitton. Her journey began in 1993 when she, alongside designer Lee Shinwoo (fashion brand: Original Lee), made a groundbreaking appearance at the Paris Pret-a-porter (luxury ready-to-wear) show.

In 2005, during an interview with me at the Korea Daily of New York, Lee Young-hee recollected the initial skepticism for that event, questioning the introduction of hanbok to Prêt-à-Porter. However, the French media praised her collection themed “Clothes of The Wind – Hanbok” the day after its announcement, labeling it a “Yellow Challenge.” Yet, a French fashion magazine caused a stir when it inaccurately referred to Hanbok as “Corée Kimono” (Korean Kimono, a traditional Japanese garment), a misrepresentation that left her astonished.

Lee Young-hee continued her presence at the Paris Prêt-à-Porter collection for the next 13 years. Venturing into New York, she hosted a hanbok fashion show at Carnegie Hall in 2000 and, four years later, established the Lee Young-hee Museum of Korean Culture in Manhattan’s Koreatown. The museum showcased not only hanbok exhibitions but also dance, vocal music, literary discussions, and various events, contributing to a decade of promoting Korean culture.

Unfortunately, the museum faced financial challenges, leading to its closure in 2014, and Lee Young-hee passed away in 2018. Approximately 300 pieces, including her hanbok and jogakbo, found a new home at the Musée National des Arts asiatiques-Guimet in Paris. The special exhibition “L'étoffe des rêves de Lee Young-hee’s Dream - Wind and Dream Cloth” was held at the Musée Guimet to honor her legacy.

In the realm of popular culture, K-drama and K-pop stars have significantly contributed to globalizing hanbok. From the classic Hallyu drama “Dae Jang Geum” (Jewel in the Palace, 2003-4) to the Netflix thriller “Kingdom” (2019), and Blackpink’s music video “How You Like That,” hanbok has become a symbol of cool fashion. The modern hanbok showcased in BTS member Suga’s pansori-style “Daechwita” (2020) music video, filmed at the palace, further highlighted the contemporary allure of hanbok.

The culmination of this influence was marked on October 21, 2021, when the city of Tenafly in northern New Jersey celebrated the inaugural “Korean Hanbok Day” ceremony in the United States. The impetus for this was a  petition from Korean high-school students in New Jersey submitted by the Asian American Youth Council (AAYC), to emphasize Korea’s cultural heritage and fashion. Tammy Snyder Murphy, wife of New Jersey Governor Phil Murphy, delivered a congratulatory speech at the ceremony, adorned in hanbok, with many Koreans participating in the event while proudly wearing hanbok.

Sukie Park 

A native Korean, Sukie Park studied journalism and film & theater in Seoul. She worked as a reporter with several Korean pop, cinema, photography and video magazines, as a writer at Korean radio (KBS-2FM 영화음악실) and television (MBC-TV 출발 비디오 여행) stations, and as a copywriter at a video company(대우 비디오). Since she moved to New York City, Sukie covered culture and travel for The Korea Daily of New York(뉴욕중앙일보) as a journalist. In 2012 she founded www.NYCultureBeat.com, a Korean language website about cultural events, food, wine, shopping, sightseeing, travel and people. She is also the author of the book recently-published in Korea, "한류를 이해하는 33가지 코드: 방탄소년단(BTS), '기생충' 그리고 '오징어 게임'을 넘어서 (33 Keys to Decoding the Korean Wave: Beyond BTS, Parasite, and Squid Game)."