33 Keys to Decoding the Korean Wave, Hallyu 

#31 The Myth of K-Beauty 

 

*한류를 이해하는 33가지 코드 #31 K-Beauty 성공 신화: The Myth of K-Beauty <Korean version>

https://www.nyculturebeat.com/index.php?mid=Focus&document_srl=4090125

 

Actress Lee Young-ae of LG Household & Health Care “Whoo,” Actress Song Hye-kyo of Amore Pacific Sulwhasoo, and K-Pop star BTS of VT Cosmetic. 

 

First came the wave of manufacturing from Korea, with Samsung and LG; then the K-pop stars, including the break-through international sensation of Psy’s “Gangnam Style.” Now comes the latest import from South Korea: a formidable array of beauty products.

-See The New York Times, “South Korea Exports Its Glow,” Oct. 20, 2014-

 

 

K-Beauty Emerges as the 4th Largest Cosmetics Exporter Globally

 

According to statistics from the Ministry of Food and Drug Safety (MFDS), exports of Korean cosmetics in 2023 reached $8.46 billion, a 6.4% increase from $7.95 billion in 2022. This makes Korea the 4th largest cosmetics exporter in the world, following France ($21.89 billion), the United States ($11.08 billion), and Germany ($9.75 billion). Italy is the 5th largest exporter with $7.36 billion. Imports of foreign cosmetics to Korea decreased by 1.5% from the previous year, totaling $1.325 billion, resulting in a trade surplus of $7.15 billion. Korean cosmetics were exported to 165 countries, with the top destinations being China, the United States, Japan, Hong Kong, Vietnam, and Russia.

 

 

Goguryeo tomb Ssangyeongchong mural (left) and Susanri tomb mural

 

Makeup has been an integral part of Korean culture since ancient times. The myth of Dangun, where the bear and tiger consume only mugwort and garlic, abstaining from sunlight for 100 days, may suggest an early pursuit of pale skin, as both mugwort and garlic are believed to have whitening and blemish-removing properties.

 

In the mural from Ssangyeongchong, a Goguryeo tomb located in Yonggang, South Pyongan Province, maidens are depicted adorned with lotus patterns and eye makeup. The mural at the Susan-ri Ancient Tombs in Nampo, South Pyongan Province, portrays a noble lady preparing to attend an acrobatic troupe, showcasing the application of yeonji (*red color on cheeks and lips) and gonji (a red dot at the center of the bride’s forehead in traditional Korean weddings). Even the male figure in the mural is depicted with lip makeup. In Anak Tomb No. 3, another Goguryeo tomb situated in Anak, South Hwanghae Province, the wife of the tomb owner is also portrayed wearing lip makeup.

 

Koreans place significant emphasis on appearance, contributing to the country’s status as a major hub for plastic surgery. The 2021 report from the International Society of Aesthetic Plastic Surgeons (ISAPS) revealed that Korea topped the global rankings with 8.9 plastic surgeries per 1,000 people. Argentina, Brazil, Colombia, Greece, and the United States followed in the rankings. The cosmetic surgery market reached a substantial $10.7 billion in 2018. It is estimated that around 25% of Korean women aged 19-29 have undergone procedures like double eyelid surgery and rhinoplasty, with 20-33% of women in Seoul opting for plastic surgery. This industry significantly influences the Korean economy, drawing approximately 46,300 foreign visitors for plastic surgery tourism in 2022. The global popularity of Korean cosmetics further contributes to Korea’s impact on beauty standards worldwide.

 

*20 Countries with the Highest Plastic Surgery Rates per Capita

https://finance.yahoo.com/news/20-countries-highest-plastic-surgery-201937113.html

 

Acquisition Boom of Global Cosmetics Company Investing in K-Beauty

 

Kim Jeong-heon, Park Bul-tong, Hong Seon-woong, Kim Yong-tae, Lee In-cheol, etc., Beauties putting on makeup from all over the world, 1986. Collection of Coreana Museum of Art, Seoul

 

The K-Beauty craze, following K-Drama, K-Food, K-Pop, and K-Movies, can be gauged by the boom in global cosmetics companies purchasing Korean indie cosmetic brands, one after another. After the British multinational company Unilever acquired Carver Korea (AHC) in 2017, L’Oréal acquired Stylenanda (3CE) in 2018, and Estee Lauder purchased Have & Be Co. (Dr.Jart+) in 2019. As a result, the top three global cosmetics companies all owned Korean brands. The technology, potential, and international competitiveness of Korean cosmetics are highly regarded, and this is an M&A strategy by established European and American cosmetic companies to target the Asian market, including China, with K-Beauty.

 

#2017: Unilever Acquires Carver Korea (AHC)

 

 

Unilever, which owns Dove soap, Vaseline, and Lipton tea, acquired Korean cosmetics company Carver Korea for 2.27 billion euros (about 3 trillion won) in 2017. Carver Korea, founded by Lee Sang-rok in 1999, launched “AHC” (Aesthetic Hydration Cosmetic), a cosmetics brand that combines dermatology and aesthetic principles, and grew rapidly in 2013 by selling eye cream and mask packs through home shopping. “The Real Eye Cream for Face” (aka Lee Bo-young Eye Cream), which is applied on the face, is a hit maker.

 

AHC has featured actors Kim Hye-soo, Lee Bo-young, Kang So-ra, and, in 2017, Hollywood star Anne Hathaway as advertising models. AHC cosmetics are sold in the United States at Target, CVS, and on Amazon. Unilever, headquartered in London and Rotterdam, is one of the world’s top cosmetics and household goods companies, alongside Procter & Gamble in the United States and L’Oréal and Estée Lauder in France.

 

 

#2018: L’Oreal Acquires Stylenanda (3CE)

 

 

L’Oréal acquired Kim So-hee’s beauty and fashion brand “Stylenanda” (Nanda Co. Ltd.) in May 2018. Targeting the Chinese market, L’Oréal focused on the brand power and various distribution channels of Stylenanda, which was preferred by the millennial generation

 

Kim So-hee launched her online shopping mall Stylenada in 2005 and achieved success while she was a college student. In 2009, she launched her cosmetics brand 3CE (3 Concept Eyes), which quickly became the number one favorite brand among teenagers in Japan.

 

L’Oreal said Stylenanda captures the vibe, elegance and creativity of Seoul and will nourish the growing appetite for makeup among millennials in Korea, China and beyond. Founded in 1910, L’Oréal includes Lancome, Giorgio Armani, Yves Saint Laurent Beauté, Helena Rubinstein, Maybelline, Kiehl’s, Shu Uemura,  and Biothem.

 

 

#2018: Migro Group Acquires Gowoonsesang (Dr. G)

 

 

In 2018, Mibelle, a cosmetics company under the Swiss company Migros, acquired “Dr. G,” a brand launched by dermatologist Dr. Gun-Young Ahn, CEO of Gowoonsesang Cosmetics, in 2003. Its exfoliating, moisturizing, and ultraviolet ray care products gained popularity and were sold at Nordstrom. Dr. G CEO Ahn became a dermatologist after suffering burns as a child.

 

Migros is Switzerland’s largest retail company, encompassing Migros (supermarkets), Glattzenrum (shopping malls), Golfpark (public golf courses), and Micasa (furniture stores), making it the largest supermarket chain and employer in Switzerland.

 

 

#2019 Estee Lauder Acquires Dr. Jart+

 

 

 

Estee Lauder, a global cosmetics company, acquired Korea’s dermacosmetic (pharmacy cosmetics that incorporates medical technology) brand “Dr. Jart+” in 2019. Dr. Jart+ is a brand launched by Jinwook Lee, CEO of “Have & Be Co.,” in 2004. It became a hit in 2014 with its popular BB (Blemish Balm) cream, formerly used as an acne treatment by dermatologists, as a cosmetic product.

 

Dr. Jart+  entered the U.S. market in 2011 and secured a presence in Sephora stores. Estée Lauder's brand portfolio includes Estée Lauder, Clinique, Origins, M·A·C, La Mer, Bobbi Brown, DKNY, Aveda, Jo Malone London, Bumble and Bumble, Darphin, Smashbox, Tom Ford, and more.

 

Surge of Second-Generation Koreans and Global Enthusiasts in the K-Beauty Industry

 

As the influence of K-Beauty extends worldwide, a new wave of second-generation Koreans and international enthusiasts is making a mark in countries such as the United States, France, Spain, and beyond, playing pivotal roles in the distribution of Korean cosmetics.  Korean Americans are not just riding but thriving on the high waves of K-Beauty, revealing Korean women’s makeup secrets and even establishing their own brands. Simultaneously, Chinese K-Beauty enthusiasts have set up K-Beauty shops in Europe, while French K-Beauty aficionados have forged collaborative efforts to launch their own brand through Korean-French collaboration.

 

 

Alicia Yoon of Peach & Lily (from left), Charlotte Cho of Soko Glam, Sarah Lee, and Christine Chang of Glow Recipe.

 

#Peach & Lily: Alicia Yoon, born in Seoul and raised in Nashville, Atlanta, and Queens, New York, experienced eczema as a child, sparking her interest in skincare during her time at a beauty academy in Seoul when she was 18. After earning a philosophy degree from Columbia University, she briefly worked at the consulting group BCG before pursuing an MBA at Harvard Business School. In 2012, Yoon founded “Peach & Lily,” a Korean cosmetics importer and distributor, eventually launching her own brand. The success of Peach & Lily was underscored by its appearance in a 2023 New York subway advertisement. https://www.peachandlily.com

 

#Soko Glam: California-born Charlotte Cho, having worked in the marketing department of the Samsung Group in Korea, founded “Soko Glam” in 2012. She imported and sold Korean cosmetics before launching her own brand, “Then I Met You,” in 2018. In 2015, Cho published “The Little Book of Skin Care: Korean Beauty Secrets for Healthy, Glowing Skin,” revealing Korean makeup secrets.

https://sokoglam.com

 

#Glow Recipe: In 2014, Korean Americans Sarah Lee and Christine Chang imported and sold Korean cosmetics while providing skincare education. Their venture, “Glow Recipe,” was officially launched in 2017, utilizing natural and fruit ingredients as primary components. By 2018, Glow Recipe achieved $30 million in sales and secured a place in Sephora. https://www.glowrecipe.com

 

#BYROE: Amy Roe, born in Korea, engaged in market research and product testing with fellow students at Columbia University’s MBA School of Business. In 2018, she founded the cosmetics brand “BYROE,” currently available at Sephora and the online organic beauty shop Alyaka, generating an annual revenue of $10 million. By 2023, BYROE is set to enter the UK, becoming available in high-end department stores, spas, and boutiques. https://byroe.com

 

 

 

#MiiN Korean Cosmetics: Lilin Yang, of Chinese descent, inaugurated her Korean cosmetics shop “MiiN” (meaning beauty in Korean) in Barcelona, Spain, in 2014. The business has since expanded to Madrid, Munich, Paris, and Milan. In 2019, Yang published “The Korean Skincare Bible: The ultimate guide to K-beauty secrets.” https://miin-cosmetics.com 

 

#Erborian: Co-founded in 2007 by Katalin Berenyi and Hojung Lee, cosmetology graduates from the University of Nantes, “Erborian” means “Herbes d’Orient” (herbs of Asia) in French. After introducing the first BB cream in Europe in 2009, Erborian joined the umbrella of L’Occitane en Provence, a cosmetics company in Provence. The “Korean Skin Therapy” brand, blending Korean bamboo, charcoal, ginseng, and herbal ingredients with French techniques, is targeting the Korean market. Katalin Berenyi became president of Clarins in 2019.

 https://kr.erborian.com

 

 

Joseon Women’s Glowing Skin: The Origin of K-Beauty

 

Shin Yun-bok, Painting of Beauty (detail), early 19th century, coloring on silk, 114.2cm x 45.7cm, Kansong Art Museum collection.

 

Lee Min-ju, a senior researcher at the Academy of Korean Studies, asserts, “It is the origin of K-beauty, focusing on the glowing skin and black hair of Joseon women.” In the Joseon Dynasty, women paid meticulous attention to achieving a dewy, glossy white jade appearance to enhance the prominence of their voluminous black hair—a prerequisite for beauty. This approach contrasts with the layered makeup method commonly employed by Chinese or Japanese women.

 

Historically, Korean women utilized powdered soap made from ground mung beans and red beans as a scrub to attain white jade-like skin. Following facial cleansing, they applied eye water made from gourd, cucumber, or citron. Subsequently, fine wrinkles were smoothed, and sebum was removed with cotton paper (serum, nutritional cream) made from egg yolk. It is also suggested that oils extracted from perilla seeds, apricot seeds, cotton seeds, rice, and barley were employed to achieve glossy skin. Thus, the tradition of natural cosmetics utilizing natural ingredients forms the root of K-Beauty.

 

Reasons for the Craze for Korean Cosmetics

Amorepacific Gold Standard Anti-Aging Eye Care (left) / Chinese model Gurinaja (古力娜扎) of LG Household & Health Care ‘Sum’ (0012.jpg)

 

 

1. Technology Innovation:

Fashion magazine Marie Claire declared in 2016, “K-Beauty is believed to be at least 7 years ahead of the rest of the world in terms of innovation.” Korea has built trust and satisfied consumer preferences with groundbreaking ideas such as BB creams, sheet masks, cushion compacts, snail cream, sleeping packs, gel liners, and fermented cosmetics. Continuous research and innovative developments targeting wrinkle treatment and moist, transparent skin have positioned Korea as a global cosmetics leader, often referred to as a “laboratory.”

 

2. Creative Ingredients:

Korean cosmetics distinguish themselves by rejecting artificial chemical ingredients and instead using non-toxic, organic, and natural components. Ingredients like red ginseng (Sulwhasoo’s Concentrated Ginseng Renewing Cream) with anti-aging, inflammation-relieving, and skin tone-improving effects, Cheonsamsongyi (Heaven Grade Ginseng, Yehwadam) from Yaksan Island, Wando-gun, Jeollanam-do, and fermented ingredients enhancing nutrient absorption (The Saem’s Chaga Mushroom Fermented White Liposome 100 Serum) provide consumers with botanical and environmentally friendly choices, instilling confidence.

 

3. Low Price, High Satisfaction:

Korean cosmetics stand out for their high quality at affordable prices, offering excellent value for the money. The competitive landscape, ranging from luxury royal cosmetics to road shop brands, contributes to both low prices and high customer satisfaction.

 

 

 

4. Design Sense:

In contrast to the minimalist packaging of Western cosmetics, K-Beauty disrupts visually. The packaging engages the younger generation with playful designs such as a penguin mask pack, peach-shaped hand cream, lip pencil shaped like a rabbit, honey jar, macaron-shaped lip balm, avocado-shaped scrub, and lip-shaped lip balm. This visual appeal aligns seamlessly with the Instagram era.

 

5. Customized Skin Care Method:

The K-Beauty wave has become a platform to teach makeup techniques to women in the East and West. The meticulous, detailed 10-step makeup technique, focusing on moist, transparent, and natural porcelain skin, involves steps like exfoliation, cleansing foam, moisturizing cosmetics, wrinkle treatment, whitening cosmetics, and facial masks and packs. Vogue, Cosmopolitan, NBC-TV’s “Today Show,” bloggers, and YouTubers showcase and praise the K-Beauty 10-Step Skincare Routine of Korean women.

 

6. Social Media:

Distinct from luxury brands like Chanel and Sisley or lower-price brands such as L’Oréal and Maybelline, K-Beauty has penetrated the innovative young generation through social media. The popularity surge is fueled by celebrities with massive followings posting images of themselves wearing Korean mask sheets on Instagram, and YouTube influencers extolling the benefits of Korean cosmetics. This voluntary promotion by stars, influencers, and the new generation has been augmented by video and SNS marketing efforts by Korean cosmetics companies.

 

 

 

7. Riding the Wave of the Korean Wave:

The K-Beauty craze is intertwined with the broader Korean Wave, encompassing K-Drama, K-Food, and K-Pop. Particularly in Southeast Asian markets like China, Thailand, Vietnam, and Indonesia, Korean Wave stars have become ambassadors for K-Beauty, creating a synergy effect in global expansion. The transparent skin of Lee Young-ae in “Daejanggeum,” Jun Ji-hyun’s radiant skin in “My Love from the Star,” and Song Hye-kyo’s dewy skin in “That Winter, the Wind Blows” have left K-drama enthusiasts envious of the glowing skin of Korean Wave stars. Lee Young-ae, Song Hye-kyo, and Jun Ji-hyun have been prominent models for various Korean cosmetics brands, further amplifying the influence.

 

Notably, K-Pop boy groups and music idol stars like BTS have also been selected as cosmetics models, contributing to the global appeal of K-Beauty. With the growth of the Asian market, synergy marketing is gaining popularity, with global brands scouting Korean Wave stars as advertising models, and Korean brands casting Chinese stars.

 

 

Koreans are "the New French"

 

The origin of modern Korean cosmetics can be traced back to powder. Specifically, “ParkGaBoon (Mr. Park’s Powder, 박가분, 朴家粉),” issued  by Park Seung Jik Store, the origin of the Doosan Group,  marked a significant starting point. CEO Suh Sung-whan, who founded Taepyeongyang (means Pacific Ocean), the predecessor of Amore Pacific, around the time of Korea’s liberation in 1945, played a crucial role in shaping the roots of makeup culture by introducing door-to-door sales through “Amore ladies” in the 1960s. Amore Pacific has evolved into a global brand, gaining placement in New York’s prestigious Bergdorf Goodman and Saks Fifth Avenue department stores.

 

In 2015, a dedicated Korean cosmetics page (K-Beauty) was established on the website of Sephora, a global cosmetics department store and online cosmetics retailer affiliated with the French luxury brand LVMH. As of February 2024, the community page K-Beauty boasts around 44,900 members, solidifying its presence.

 

Following the introduction of Korean blockbusters such as BB cream, sheet masks, cushion compacts, and snail cream, renowned international brands like Chanel, Dior, Estee Lauder, Shiseido also entered the market with similar products. Now, women worldwide are not only purchasing from well-established Korean brands like Amore Pacific and LG, but are also embracing mid- to low-priced road shop cosmetics brands such as Misha, Tony Moly, The Face Shop, Innisfree, Nature Republic, Skinfood, Etude House, and Holika Holika. K-Beauty has emerged as a global trendsetter in the cosmetics industry.

 

Within the cosmetics industry, Koreans are often referred to as the “New French,” drawing a parallel to France’s reputation for high-end cosmetics and beautiful women. K-Beauty products are recognized for their combination of good quality and affordability. According to a survey conducted by the statistical data website Statista.com (as of February 25, 2022) on the global popularity of Korean cosmetics in 2021, 35.8% of respondents considered Korean cosmetics to be very popular. K-Beauty has gained widespread recognition, popularity, and a dedicated following. By country, Korean cosmetics are most popular in Indonesia and the United Arab Emirates. 

 

 

Sukie Park 

A native Korean, Sukie Park studied journalism and film & theater in Seoul. She worked as a reporter with several Korean pop, cinema, photography and video magazines, as a writer at Korean radio (KBS-2FM 영화음악실) and television (MBC-TV 출발 비디오 여행) stations, and as a copywriter at a video company(대우 비디오). Since she moved to New York City, Sukie covered culture and travel for The Korea Daily of New York(뉴욕중앙일보) as a journalist. In 2012 she founded www.NYCultureBeat.com, a Korean language website about cultural events, food, wine, shopping, sightseeing, travel and people. She is also the author of the book recently-published in Korea, "한류를 이해하는 33가지 코드: 방탄소년단(BTS), '기생충' 그리고 '오징어 게임'을 넘어서 (33 Keys to Decoding the Korean Wave: Beyond BTS, Parasite, and Squid Game)."